Strategery Wall Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 9,200 ft | 2,804 m |
GPS: |
39.4047, -106.6579 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 12,263 total · 53/month | |
Shared By: | Nate Adams on Aug 22, 2006 · Updates | |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
6/18/25: USFS has been monitoring Lime Canyon for nesting peregrine falcons, and a pair has established a nest. The active nest site is found in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Information is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary area closure, including at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the north end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the main canyon to a point about 180' north of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Information is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary area closure, including at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the north end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the main canyon to a point about 180' north of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
This wall faces East, with no trees for shade. There are about a half dozen 3 & 4 star lines, no harder than 12c.
Watch for red tags - if you see one on the first hanger, the route is a project. This means it hasn't been sent, or there are loose blocks that need to be removed. There is at least one red tagged line on this wall with a death block that will be removed this summer.
Watch for red tags - if you see one on the first hanger, the route is a project. This means it hasn't been sent, or there are loose blocks that need to be removed. There is at least one red tagged line on this wall with a death block that will be removed this summer.
Getting There
Two roads access the canyon, one on each side of the creek. The West road deadends just below The Prow. An improvised footbridge crosses the creek at the last pullout before the end of the road. Cross the footbridge and follow the trail downstream along the creek. Pass a large break in the cliff above that is filled with aspens. A short way down the trail, you'll see a boulder capped with orange lichen. Turn right here and hike up the hill, following the climbers trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Strategery Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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