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Routes in Strategery Wall
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Art of War, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bearfoot Grylls S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumble On S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bumbler, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peckerwood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rumble in the Bumble S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shield Maiden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Strategery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Weapons of Mass Deception S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wood Pecker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | John VanNostrand Jr., 2014 |
| Page Views: | 86 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Goeringer on Jul 31, 2022 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Raptor Closure - Magic Forest & Endless Wall @ Jellystone Park 6/9/22-8/1/22 - now ended
Details
Update: the temporary closure has ended. During recent monitoring, my technician spotted no falcons or young on the cliffs or in immediate nesting area where they were seen earlier this season. She saw an adult flying around the main canyon and heard it calling. The young is now able to fly and the family will likely hang around the vicinity for a while longer, but is not dependent on the nest site.
Previously: from Phillip Nyland, NFS - the peregrine falcons have returned in 2022 to nest in the Jellystone climbing area of Lime CC. As a result, the White River NF was enacting a temporary closure of the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective June 9 until 8/1/22.
A pair of peregrine falcons successfully nested here in 2020 during a similar temporary closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure wasn't necessary.
A pair was currently attending a nest. During my last monitoring session, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge out of view. The nest was in a location widely visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to human presence at both cliffs.
The temporary closed area includes the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, & access routes to the Magic Forest & Endless Wall at Jellystone Park. The top of the cliffs are included in the closure, b/c we have seen the peregrines perched there. Closure information is posted at the beginning of the access route from FR 400. The closure ends Aug. 1.
Older info: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with Phillip Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date has shown no evidence of raptor nesting in the area. As a result, the NF anticipates no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime Creek & the nearby areas are open.
The White River National Forest proposes to establish a 5-year regulation, known as a “Special Order,” that would restrict human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime Creek Canyon, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on observed nesting activity.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction set forth from June to 8/1/20 after monitoring showed the nest to be active for the fourth year from 2016-2020, and within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime Creek Canyon are unique and have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, and rear their young. During this life stage, adults and young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by close human presence.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted annually on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to Phil Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at (970) 404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or Jennifer Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at (970) 404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by May 24, 2021.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, and how to provide your comments is available by contacting the Forest Service.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Please share this invitation to comment with others.
Thank you for your interest in the management of your public lands.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Previously: from Phillip Nyland, NFS - the peregrine falcons have returned in 2022 to nest in the Jellystone climbing area of Lime CC. As a result, the White River NF was enacting a temporary closure of the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective June 9 until 8/1/22.
A pair of peregrine falcons successfully nested here in 2020 during a similar temporary closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure wasn't necessary.
A pair was currently attending a nest. During my last monitoring session, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge out of view. The nest was in a location widely visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to human presence at both cliffs.
The temporary closed area includes the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, & access routes to the Magic Forest & Endless Wall at Jellystone Park. The top of the cliffs are included in the closure, b/c we have seen the peregrines perched there. Closure information is posted at the beginning of the access route from FR 400. The closure ends Aug. 1.
Older info: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with Phillip Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date has shown no evidence of raptor nesting in the area. As a result, the NF anticipates no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime Creek & the nearby areas are open.
The White River National Forest proposes to establish a 5-year regulation, known as a “Special Order,” that would restrict human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime Creek Canyon, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on observed nesting activity.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction set forth from June to 8/1/20 after monitoring showed the nest to be active for the fourth year from 2016-2020, and within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime Creek Canyon are unique and have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, and rear their young. During this life stage, adults and young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by close human presence.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted annually on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to Phil Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at (970) 404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or Jennifer Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at (970) 404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by May 24, 2021.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, and how to provide your comments is available by contacting the Forest Service.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Please share this invitation to comment with others.
Thank you for your interest in the management of your public lands.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
This is the rightmost route on the Strategery Buttress. Climb a funky start into juggy face climbing eventually committing to the arete. There is a decent amount of choss, so watch out! It should clean up nicely with traffic. The Western sloper guidebook has it listed as a 12. It felt a quite a bit easier than Strategery (12b). It is a great, adventurous sport climb! Get on it!
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