Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Teenage Wasteland

Back in Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross Town Traffic Right S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Slab T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Magic Bus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Route 2 aka Primal Instinct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 5 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:

Description

A slabby area on the backside of the Super Slab.

The routes don't quite match up with Cowan's guide - I'll use numbers instead.

Getting There

After passing Tiger Wall, continue straight past the turnoffs to Beginner's Slab and Groove Rock areas. Soon the road from Super Slab rejoins from the left. Turn left here, and park when the road reaches the rocks. Hike down and left - leave the bike trail and walk through a notch to the slabs.

6 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Teenage Wasteland Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Aaron Brown
Gypsum, CO
Aaron Brown   Gypsum, CO
There is also another route in this area above the climbs outlined here. As you come down from the parking area keep an eye out on your left for a very steep, east-facing wall, the route ascends the middle of this face past 2 bolts then steps right to a large ledge. Finish by climbing the aret past a couple more bolts; goes at 5.11ish. There is also a project route that continues straight up the steep face. Mar 28, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Just as a historical note, I have seen all of these routes climbed well over 50 times apiece in the '70s. I've climbed most of them all myself at least 1/2 dozen times (got the 5.10 only once). Scotty Gilbert free soloed all of them and worked on the 5.10 route for about a month climbing up and DOWN it with control that blew most of us away. Anyway, they are really fun, smearing, face pitches in a very quiet secluded spot to spend an afternoon. Thanks for putting them up here! Aug 29, 2007

More About Teenage Wasteland

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Teenage Wasteland (7)

Most Popular · Newest