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Routes in Fin City

Chimney Sweeper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dudh Chai T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hands Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kids on Coffee T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details


This is a small, perhaps tiny, crag located along the eastern part of Lumpy Ridge. It is perhaps 200 yards just North of Crescent Wall near Gem Lake. There are at least 6 routes (in the low to moderate difficulty range) with potential for a few more at this crag, but none is taller than about 50 feet. Still, it may be worth the effort if you are in the right frame of mind. Tape or excellent technique is useful.

To descend the crag, you can find a couple downclimbs going East. One goes down the backside of Chimney Sweeper with a few 5th class moves. Another goes down the back of Dudh Chai where you can belay down your partner with looping a rope around a horn above.

So, Doug or Richard, did any of you climb that gnarly offwidth listed as 3 in the photo?

Note, the GPS location is a guess, since the GPS imaging is low resolution in this area at this time.

Getting There

Hike from the new Trailhead towards Gem Lake. When you see Crescent Wall about 1 1/4 miles in, you may notice a small outcropping of fins located just left (North). This is it.

There are 2 approaches: 1) hike along a faint trail where the draw between the Gem Lake Trail & Crescent Wall becomes quite close to the level of the trail. It is just past the Common Courtesy Crag. Go up slabs and find a passable gully up towards the crag. 2) You can reach this crag by continuing further where there are a set of 4-6 tighter switchbacks about 1/4 mi further up the trail. Here you will see the N face of Out West Crag. Find a faint path towards the East end of Out West Crag, then scamper about 100 yards further South.

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"So, Doug, Earl, Bernard, or Richard, did any of you climb that gnarly offwidth listed as 3 in the photo?"
Hi Leo - I have not climbed the OW. Doug and Earl may have (I doubt they'd remember, though, and you can't ask Earl as he is no longer with us). Richard can speak for himself. May 16, 2006
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Personally, with everything Lumpy/Colorado has to offer, unless you're really bored and looking to kill some time, I felt this place was a complete waste of time. The hike is kinda heinous as there is not really any well travelled entry trail, the climbs are short, and the quality is so-so. One would do better climbing elsewhere. Jul 4, 2007
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
What Chris said. Doubly so since this area isn't really close to any other crag with a similar grade distribution. These climbs are short by Vedauwoo standards, and the book is overestimating by about 15-20 feet when it says that the routes are about 50 feet long. Sep 6, 2011
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Going to disagree with other comments. I thought the hike was not bad, and the climbing was all quite pleasant. Sep 9, 2013

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