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Routes in Fin City

Chimney Sweeper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dudh Chai T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hands Off T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kids on Coffee T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Offwidth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: ?Doug Snively & Earl Wiggins?
Page Views: 704 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 13, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the left of a set of 3 cracks on the West face of Fin City. It is short, sweet, and inviting with some good hand jamming. Tape is nice for those without great technique like me, and the jams are deep so forearms will get a bit scuffed. The start is the crux of the climbing. You can start from the ground with some help from the next crack left or step off the boulder behind and jam. A #0.75 Camalot can be set off this boulder to protect the tricky start. Note, there is a nice lieback rail on the right wall about 1/2 way up. Also, the last few feet of climbing involves standing on & climbing a huge flake, which appears balanced & detached. Beware of using this flake for protection. 1.4 stars.

Location

This is the left of a set of 3 cracks on the West face of Fin City.

Protection

A set of cams plus is nice from Red Alien/TCU size to #4 Camalot. #1 Camalot, a bigger wire, a big Cam, and a red Alien are nice for the belay.

Photos

GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
Lots of tough sizes on this one, but very nice climb. Too bad it's so short. Sep 9, 2013
TRC
  5.10a
TRC  
  5.10a
No way this was 5.8...not even with a plus added on. Got "Hands Off" no problem while I could barely get off the ground on this one. Jun 7, 2010
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This climb is short but stout for the grade, don't underestimate the start. Jun 23, 2009
Dan Howell
Northglenn, CO
 
Dan Howell   Northglenn, CO
 
This was very sustained for me. Great hand jams on the lower section but wider than hands on the upper portion. Easy to protect. Oct 7, 2006