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The Black Kaweah Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Black Kaweah

L › R R › L A › Z

Southwest Chute T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b

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Elevation:	13,680 ft	4,170 m
GPS:	36.545, -118.516 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,872 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Chris Owen on Apr 4, 2006
Admins:	Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

"Here, toothed and volcanic, The Black Kaweah is the Sierra's most forbidding peak."

So John Cleare described this peak in his book "Mountains and Mountaineering". I see no reason to dispute his analysis. Others may disagree.

The Black Kaweah has a reputation for being loose. The most common way up is by the Southwest Chute.

This a remote peak surrounded by truly deep backcountry - even getting there is an adventure....

Getting There

Little Five Lakes, although a compromise, is probably a good spot to camp for a one day hike to gain access to routes on the south to west sides of the peak. Although a very early start for the climb will be required.

From Mineral King hike over Glacier Pass down to Spring Lake, then hike up to the crest of Cyclamen Lake Pass, scramble along its north side, over the ridge ahead and down into the Little Five Lakes Basin. This is a wonderfully scenic but gruelling hike (6 miles - 3,300 ft gain, 1,000 ft loss, 1,200 ft gain).

One could take two days to do this hike: Camp at Spring Lake on Day 1, then the next day hike past Little Five Lakes into The Big Arroyo, north up this and camp closer to the Peak.

The other alternative is from Giant Forest, to hike the High Sierra Trail up over Kaweah Gap which is about 16 miles, this is a two day affair and would land you at the head of The Big Arroyo.

Get permit information here.