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Routes in Beardsley Boulders

Anarchy Crack T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Asscrack, The V0 4
Assorted Goods V0-1 4+
Beer Belly V0+ 4+
Bill’s Problem V6- 7A
Brown Sugar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classic Orange T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V0 4
Das Boot V6-7 7A+
Double Clutch V3 6A
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fingertip Mantle V4-5 6B+
Flake, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frosted Flakes V1 5
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamstring V1+ 5
Hot Sweaty Buns S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mantle Puss V1 5
Monkey Lust V3 6A
Monkey Lust Right V0-1 4+
Mr. Mantle V1-2 5
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pencil Thin V6-7 7A+
Pencil Thin Flake V5 6C
Pencil Thin, Right Arete V4 6B
Perforator right V2 5+
Prow, The V3 6A
Sharpie V2 5+
Short N' Easy V0- 4-
Slewgundymegahawk T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Spank Your Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Unnamed V3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Virgin, The V0 4
Whales Back V0 4
Wiley Left V0 4
Wiley Right V0- 4-
Wolf Jr. V1-2 5
gripper, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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If you are in the Phoenix area and want to do some quick bouldering or some routes Beardsly is probably the best choice. The rock is a composite granite - sharp stuff man. There are about 17 routes and over 40 boulder problems (from v0-v7?); all of the boulder problems are on the east side of the mountain.

Getting There

To get there go to the intersection of the 101 and Cave Creek, from there go north on Cave Creek for about a 0.5 miles, then make a left onto Lone Cactus Road, continuing on the road until you reach a parking lot (the road will dead end there). From the parking area it will be obvous where the climbing is. All of the boulder problems are on or below the main mountain, just walk towards that vicinity and there will be a wide range of problems from V0-V6/7?

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Classic Climbing Routes at Beardsley Boulders

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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where is the v11? Nov 11, 2009
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
I think I may have made an error on the V11. Can someone tell me what the hardest grade is out here? I will update it. Dec 18, 2011
Scott Z
Highlands Ranch, CO
Scott Z   Highlands Ranch, CO
Karabin guide has V6 as the hardest problems. However that guide was circa 1994. Jan 21, 2012
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
I came here and did some boulder problems that I couldn't find on mountain project I'll post the photos of them and see if anyone can identify them with names and grades, I found it less than easy to find some of the established problems, but had a good time. There is a lot of broken glass here! Jan 3, 2015
Gregory Cooper
Phoenix Arizona
Gregory Cooper   Phoenix Arizona
There's really two areas of bouldering that I saw, a north end and a south end that is divided by trail that goes up an over the saddle. It should be visible from the parking area at the end of Lone Cactus road. It also appears that Lone Cactus road is the only place to park now?

To get to the Main Boulders and Fear Rock head north towards the large buildings around the mountain. You should see start to see powerlines that go up the mountain. You'll now your close then and start seeing other boulder problems right off the trail. Looking left and up you'll see Fear Rock as well.

Other boulders are located south. You won't be able to see them until you pass over a large hump. Fellow the base of the mountain to the southwest pass over the hump and these larger boulders pop out and will be located right next to a street that dead ends. May 23, 2018

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