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Routes in Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall

Spank the Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vengeance is Mine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

South-facing limestone with two bolted routes, featuring edges and pockets.

Getting There

Get to the base of Bug Barn Dance Wall: Walk up the canyon to the (sometimes-functional) water fountain at the right side of the trail. Look east and a little left of the trail. You'll see the Bug Barn Dance Wall.

After getting to the base of BBDW, traverse west along the top of the talus. Cross a tiny ridge, along the wall some more, then cross another bump. Another few steps and you're at the base.

2 Total Climbs

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In the mid 90's a friend and I went up there to do those routes. As he was leading (something easy) he pulled a 5-gallon bucket sized rock off and fell at the same time. I took 2 steps backward but the rope was pulling me back into the wall into the rockfall. I watched that rock and the other debris land right where I was just standing. Somehow we both managed to safely avoid anything. Jul 16, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Two so-so routes with a kinda crappy approach. They're definitely worth doing once, but I don't think I'll go back there anytime soon.

For the approach, instead of traversing across near the bottom of the cliff the whole way, we went across the talus slope. That sucked pretty bad. Jul 16, 2008

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