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Routes in Upper Bug Barn Dance Wall

Spank the Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vengeance is Mine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mark Allman
Page Views: 697 total · 5/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

The right route on the wall. The start is fun limestone pockets, changing to good, positive holds. The crux comes after crossing the crack (after clipping the 5th bolt, see photo).

The rock on Spank the Monkey seemed quite a bit better than the route next to it (Vengeance is Mine). The pocket area near the bottom is quite solid, and most of the holds on the left side of the crack seem good. There was, however, one fairly large semi-detached flake that looks like it would be a great jug, but it is a bit loose.

The Ruckman guide shows this route as completely separate from Vengeance is Mine until the anchors (and that is how I show it in the topo photo). However, it is a bit run out after the last bolt and if you fell near the top you would almost certainly hit a ledge below, which would be a bad thing. Fortunately it is easy to clip the last bolt on Vengeance is Mine.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts to chain anchors with quick links.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Really fun and interesting pockets at the start. After that, though, I actually think that the rock is worse than the 5.10 to the left. Still, this route is worth doing.

I clipped the last bolt on the 5.10, as well. Seemed to make sense at the time. Jul 16, 2008

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