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Areas in Upper Devils Canyon

Beach, The 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lost Wall 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Pancake House 1 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Throne/Universe Wall, The 4 / 18 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Elevation: 3,500 ft
Page Views: 15,983 total, 111/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.
Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Getting There

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Devils Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cool Breeze
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracker Jack Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dr. Giggles
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Projectiles
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lumberjack
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
French Toast
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ferocious Flo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Queen Creek Freak
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunny-Side Up
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Earth Angel
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frequent Flyer
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deviled Hands
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devils Advocate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Electric Skeletons
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cool Breeze Pancake House 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Cracker Jack Crack Throne/Universe Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dr. Giggles Throne/Universe Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Projectiles Lost Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lumberjack Throne/Universe Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
French Toast Pancake House 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Ferocious Flo Throne/Universe Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Queen Creek Freak Lost Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sunny-Side Up Pancake House 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Earth Angel Throne/Universe Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Frequent Flyer Throne/Universe Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Deviled Hands Pancake House 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devils Advocate Pancake House 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Electric Skeletons Throne/Universe Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Devils Canyon »

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Note that the moderates listed in the Karabin are in many cases sand bags at this time. It looks like holds have broken off. We found 5.7's that were 5.9's. If it looks blank and thin, odds are it's a lot harder than the little paper foldout indicates. Be ready. Good climbing, however, and in a beautiful setting. Nice! Jan 11, 2017
ravisurdhar Surdhar
Phoenix, CO
ravisurdhar Surdhar   Phoenix, CO
Was here two weeks ago in the beginning of May 2015. It was forecast to be 100F in Phoenix, but it was high 70's and shady all afternoon at the Upper Devils Canyon walls! Perfect summer climbing destination. Surprisingly easy to find, and that's coming from someone who has bad experience route-finding. Some expanded details below though:

The parking lot is at these coordinates: 33.308244, -111.038085. Google Maps has good satellite imagery showing the dirt road to get there. I was able to do the road up to there in my 09 Outback just fine. After that point, the rocks get HUGE, so park and hike the rest of the way up the road (east), probably about 100m. You'll take a sharp right, then a sharp left, then come to a turn-around. Walk straight across and you'll see carins guiding your way down the slope and towards the UDC walls. The walls will be on your left, the bolt lines are fairly obvious. Now, if only someone would order the routes on here from R->L instead of A->Z... :) May 14, 2015

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