Elevation: 3,500 ft
GPS: 33.308, -111.036 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,967 total · 265/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 4, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aaron Mc, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd
Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Upper Devils Canyon is a deep north-south canyon located just east of the Oak Flat Campground. The routes are found on various outcroppings along the western (mostly) slope of the canyon. A fire plowed through this area a while back, wiping out most of the thick foliage along the western side of the canyon. There are many braided trails and what looks like a blossoming erosion problem looming.

The route tend to be of a mixed nature, both edges and pockets. Maybe a little heavier on the pockets and lots of little pockets to work those fingers. There is a pretty good range of routes here as well, with lots of moderate routes being put up over the last few years.

This area mostly faces to the east, and it is entirely possible to climb after (approx.) mid-morning here during the cooler (less hot?) days of the summer months.

Getting There

After turning off highway 60 and going down the hill toward Oak Flat CG, take the first left and drive on that road around the eastern end of Oak Flat (off to the right) and up a hill. Keep going east on the dirt road until you start south and take a spur road back left (east) to park near one of the big power towers along the west side of Upper Devils Canyon. A trail leads over to the rim and down into the canyon near the Pancake House Area.

48 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Upper Devils Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Upper Devils Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 22
Cool Breeze
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 27
Cracker Jack Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Squeeze Play
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Too Stiff To Tip
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Dr. Giggles
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Lumberjack
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 27
French Toast
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Ferocious Flo
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Queen Creek Freak
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Tendon Teaser
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
Earth Angel
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Frequent Flyer
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 20
Deviled Hands
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Devils Advocate
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Electric Skeletons
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cool Breeze Pancake House
 22
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Cracker Jack Crack Throne/Universe Wall
 27
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Squeeze Play Throne/Universe Wall
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Too Stiff To Tip Pancake House
 24
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dr. Giggles Throne/Universe Wall
 25
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lumberjack Throne/Universe Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
French Toast Pancake House
 27
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Ferocious Flo Throne/Universe Wall
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Queen Creek Freak Lost Wall
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Tendon Teaser Throne/Universe Wall
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Earth Angel Throne/Universe Wall
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Frequent Flyer Throne/Universe Wall
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Deviled Hands Pancake House
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devils Advocate Pancake House
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Electric Skeletons Throne/Universe Wall
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Upper Devils Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos