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Routes in Pancake House

Cool Breeze S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Deviled Hands S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devils Advocate S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Free At Last S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
French Toast S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Frosted Flakes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hash Browns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Is It? T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
L'eggo my Eggo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Breeze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over Easy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunny-Side Up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Too Stiff To Tip S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Marty Karabin & Harvey Delos Reyes, May 1991
Page Views: 836 total, 8/month
Shared By: Alex Hardt on Feb 18, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The start of this climb is recognizable by two large pockets in the face. Start at the center inside the Pancake House under the roof and climb up to the 1st bolt and the 1st large pocket. Veer right toward the 2nd bolt and the 2nd large pocket and then continue straight up and outside to a thin face. Climb the thin face past 2 bolts to a ledge and an anchor with 2 chains. The Queen Creek Guide lists this climb as a 5.9 and the newer fold-out topo lists it as a 5.8 (probably due to retro-bolting eliminating the need to protect the lower face with cams.) However, I thought the face climb past the last 2 bolts was still pretty stiff for a 5.8.

Location

Center face inside the Pancake House.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor chains.

Photos

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Nick VZ
 
Nick VZ  
 
Great climb, but you better not fall before clipping the 1st bolt Dec 15, 2013