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Routes in Lost Wall

Fredies Nightmare S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Handsome Devil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Projectiles S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Queen Creek Freak T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shout at the Devil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoned S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
True North S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
GPS: 33.306, -111.076 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,071 total · 25/month
Shared By: Scott Frankel on Apr 24, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick


The Lost Wall is the furthest North climbing area in Upper Devils Canyon. It stands separate from most of the Upper Devils Canyon climbing, so it may be less crowded here. The majority of the climbs are sport with lowering anchors, although there are a few trad climbs. The rock is typical of Queen Creek climbing, with pockets and flakes. Some of the rock at the top of these climbs are quite loose (and quite large!), so helmets are recommended. This area gets morning sun and afternoon shade.
Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Getting There

From US-60 you'll head towards the Oak Flat campground. Take the first road to your left and follow this road up a hill as it generally heads East. Stay left at the two forks you will run into. Eventually this road will dead end just before US-60. About 500 yards before this dead end, there is a small pullout for a few cars on your right. Park here and walk back towards the campground for a minute while looking on your left for cairns marking a trail. The trail heads to the North side of the climbing area and if you follow the cairns is not too bad to follow. Some limited scrambling without exposure is needed to get to the base of the climbs.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Queen Creek Freak
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Queen Creek Freak
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
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Bend, OR
luketipple   Bend, OR
A decent wall with more bolted routes than are listed here. Getting there is easy, just head towards the campground (as instructed above) and take the first dirt road on your left. If you hit the campground you've gone too far. Keep left at all the forks (you'll pass two) until you hit a dead end. Currently there is a large white piece of plastic nailed into and spanned the entire road which marks the trail-head around 0.1 miles from the dead end. Follow the cairns, it's easy to find the wall. Your approach will have you standing on top of it with an easy scramble to the base.

There are a LOT of loose, large boulders on top of this wall ranging from fist sized to mini-fridge sized. All parties should wear helmets, although if someone were to kick or rope drag one of the bigger rocks loose I don't think it would save you. I wouldn't climb here adjacent to another party, it's very likely that rocks will be dislodged. Climb at your own risk. Dec 1, 2015
Stormy Rose
Chandler, AZ
Stormy Rose   Chandler, AZ
"Some of the rock at the top of these climbs are quite loose (and quite large!), so helmets are recommended."

This comment would not have saved John Scott. The falling rock was too large. Two feet in diameter equals death with or without a helmet. Please wear a helmet and dive toward the wall if someone yells rock. Feb 25, 2014

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