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Routes in Retirement Rock

COLA (Cost of Living Allowance). S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Early Bird Special S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fixed Income S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let the Daylight In S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
NW Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Career S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Discount S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

West-facing. Good late afternoon sun in the winter months. Five routes so far.

L->R:

A. Second Career, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Senior Discount, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. NW Arete, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Let the Daylight In, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
E1. Early Bird Special, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
E2. Fixed Income, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. COLA (Cost of Living Allowance)., 11-, 1p, 35', bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

From Boulder: drive up Boulder Canyon to Nip and Tuck crag. Continue past Nip and Tuck for 0.3 miles to a large RTD parking area/pullout on the left. Park at the far west-end of the parking area. Cross the creek at a 20-mile per hour sign and look for a rock cairn on the south side of the creek. Angle up and right along a lower rock wall to reach the upper (Retirement Rock) wall.

7 Total Climbs

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Couldn't find anything resembling a trail. After a while, we said fuck it and headed to Pasta Vinos in Boulder. Sep 2, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I didn't read the trail beta and found the "direct" uphill approach pretty nasty. The river crossing was below the kneecap, but man, the overgrowth! I should have read/found the trail, but didn't. That said, if you like red rasberries, man is this the place for you. Big, fat rasberries everywhere, all you can eat. Enjoy it, it's as thick as they get.

If you do go here, please do everyone a favor and take a large wire brush - the routes could use a little more cleaning. Since everyone has slightly different styles, 1/2 of the available/usable/legit holds are not brushed clean and are quite dirty on a few routes. The moves are fun though, so they clean up nicely.

With a better approach and cleaner rock, this would be a worthwhile after-work crag, but right now, it suffers the lack of "full development." Jul 28, 2010
djoseph  
Thanks Greg. I'll probably wait another few weeks until the leaves drop from the bushes... probably will be easy to find the path then. Sep 23, 2008
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
I'm not sure of the speed limit sign, but you should cross at the far west (up river) end of the parking lot. There used to be a cairn on a big rock on the other side. Then head up a short steep hill, and then angle up stream. The trail grows in and I may need to get there and clip the growth back. Sep 22, 2008
djoseph  
Question on the approach: we crossed the creek at the 30 mph sign (not 20, per the description) across from Nursing Home, and came to a clearing with a cairn. However, couldn't see a path and didn't want to crash through the rather thick brush if there is a trail somewhere...I prefer to limit impact on the foliage. Is there a path/trail that I missed, or do you have to bushwhack through? Sep 22, 2008

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