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Routes in Retirement Rock

COLA (Cost of Living Allowance). S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Early Bird Special S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fixed Income S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Let the Daylight In S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
NW Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Career S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Discount S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Start just right of the arete on the west face. Make a hard move left past the first bolt. Several hard moves get you to a dish and bad holds. Crank the crux moves and power up and left to the arete. Follow the bolts to the anchor.

Protection

Six bolts will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12
I went up to do this route, today, and broke the crux handhold off. It was a good edge, and it is now a bad sloper. The route felt like 12- with it, but it is solid 5.12 without it. I was up there with Matt Samet, and he redpointed it without the hold. He said it is probably 12b/c now. The third clip is harder.

Be careful standing on the detached blocks at the first bolt. A basketball-size chunk broke off, when I stepped on it, and almost took out my belayer. Make sure that the belayer and rope pile are back far enough away from the wall in case the rest of this huge block goes. It is probably a hundred pounds, and could easily kill someone. It is not a matter of if but when.

Otherwise, this is an okay route. Oct 20, 2007