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1st Middle Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in 1st Middle Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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GPS:	38.89597, -104.84999 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,412 total · 17/month
Shared By:	Julian Smith on May 20, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage! Details

Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.

Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.

Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.

This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.

The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.

Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!

Description

The 1st Middle Buttress is comprised of 4 separate pinnacles that span the north side of the canyon from the floor to the rim. Though not much is published about the history of climbing on these pinnacles lots of multi-pitch route potential exists. From the Canyon floor to the canyon rim, it is probably about a 2000 foot elevation gain. The rocks on this side of the canyon face south, getting plenty of sun.

Getting There

From the gate on Cheyenne Boulevard (this is the park entrance, where the road turns into North Cheyenne Canyon Road), drive .85 miles to an obvious pullout on the right (west) side of the road. The 1st through the 4th pinnacle of the 1st Middle Buttress are above the pullout to the northeast.