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Routes in 1st Middle Buttress

East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
South Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 72 total · 1/month
Shared By: D Condit on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This route is two pitches up the blunt ridge that faces east on the 1st and 2nd pinnacles. It is an alternative to the first two pinnacles of the South Ridge. The first pitch is fun and interesting. The second pitch is a scary choss pile, but you can avoid it by traversing to the South Ridge.

Pitch 1 – Climb above and slightly right on descent rock, past a small tree to gain a good crack. Climb the crack straight up to a sloping, loose ledge with a tree. Belay with a directional high in the tree to avoid having the rope knock rocks onto the second. The pro is the tree down low and a nut in the crack. 1.5 stars, 140 feet, 5.7R.

Pitch 2 – Move the belay up about 30 feet to the large ledge prior to the obvious, vertical section. Move right and up past a small tree 10 feet above the ledge. Continue straight up on crumbling, unprotected rock to the top. The pro is the tree and a horn that may not take a fall. 0 stars, 130 feet, 5.7X.

Finish on South Ridge.

Location

From the pullout directly across the street from the Pinnacle, walk up the road past the first knob of rock on your right and then head uphill in the next gully. About 200 feet of 4th class scrambling ends at a sloping ledge with a large tree.

Protection

The route has little protection and climbs some very poor rock. The second pitch has almost no legitimate protection. A few medium nuts and some double length runners are about all you can use.

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