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The Spoon Bouldering

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Spoon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Frog Traverse V3 6A
	Spoon Arête V3 6A
	Spoon Face V4 6B
	Spoon Face Low V6 7A
	Spoon Left Arete, The V6 7A
	Spoon, The V2- 5+
	Tweeter Traverse V3-4 6A+
	Unknown contrived dyno V2+ 5+

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Elevation:	3,148 ft	960 m
GPS:	37.22876, -122.09615 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	19,226 total · 76/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on May 1, 2005
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This small bouldering rock sits just downhill behind Castle Rock Proper. The top of the rock is shaped like an upside down spoon, and the rock itself looking at it across the gradient looks like a spoon. Hmmm... Hence the name?

The rock is sandstone, and the jugs and excellent edges of the classic highball mantle known as The Spoon (V1) are the order of the day. A couple of other problems sit on the same rock, a V4 edges on the right, and a V2 traverse that moves uphill on the left side of the rock.

All routes easliy walk of the back, where the rock disappears into the hillside.

Getting There

Approach time: Parking lot: 5 - 15 minutes, depending on your pace.Castle Rock proper: 10 seconds. From the Castle Rock parking lot, head uphill on the leftmost walking path 0.3 miles to Castle Rock proper. The walk wanders a bit, but the path is signed the whole way, so it's hard to miss. Once at Castle Rock proper (the big one, you can't miss it), walk around the right side of the rock to the smaller boulders slightly downhill ad left of the trail. This is the first boulder the trail will take you to if you walk downhill to the lower side of the rocks. The front face of The Spoon is just left of the trail about 5 feet.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Spoon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2- 5+ 198 ● The Spoon Boulder
V2+ 5+ 7 ● Unknown contrived dyno Boulder
V3 6A 6 ● Spoon Arête Boulder
V4 6B 54 ● Spoon Face Boulder