Description

Sitting above and on the ocean, Goat Rock is a great place for bouldering and top roping. There are a few trad routes, but it's not a place you should head if your entire day is planned around being a trad monkey.

This is a gorgeous place, and all bay area climbers should make their way out to Goat Rock at least once. The routes are quite varied in difficulty, from 5.2 to V10, as are the styles of climbing.

The rock, as most other bay area locations is a random assortment of beautiful rock, blues, reds, greens, whites and black. There will more information on the geology of the area as time allows.

Climbing is free, as are the waves.

The bouldering routes are all walk offs, and most of the climbing routes you will need to lower off.

The only downside of the existing routes in some people's minds could be that you've got to climb an exposed 5.2 30' to get to the top of the rock!

Getting There

From the South:

To access Goat Rock, take the Railroad Ave exit from the 101 North in Petaluma.

Turn left onto Railroad ave, then right on Stony Point Road.

Continue on Stony Point for about 2 miles and then turn left onto Roblar Road.

Drive on Roblar Road for about 6.5 miles and then turn right at the intersection with Valley Ford road.

Go north through the town of Bodega Bay along the coast.

After approximately 9 miles, you will see the sign and eventual left turn to Goat Rock Beach.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Goat Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V-easy 3
 51
Pelican Arete
TR, Boulder
V0 4
 15
Mid-Term
Boulder
V2 5+ R
 23
Skullcracker
Boulder
V2 5+
 10
Sunset Traverse
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
Heel Hooker Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Potato Chip Arete
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 7
Rock Scar
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
The Specialist
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Sunset Arete
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Sunset Corner
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4 R
 19
Sunset Face Left
TR, Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Osprey
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Sunset Face Right
TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Final Exam
TR
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2- 5+ R
 11
Killer Crack
TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Pelican Arete Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 51
V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
Mid-Term Sunset Boulders > Mammoth Rock
 15
V0 4 Boulder
Skullcracker Sunset Boulders > Lamb Boulder
 23
V2 5+ R Boulder
Sunset Traverse Sunset Boulders > Mammoth Rock
 10
V2 5+ Boulder
Heel Hooker Traverse Sunset Boulders > Heel Hooker Boulder
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Potato Chip Arete Sunset Boulders > Potato Chip Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Rock Scar Sunset Boulders > Lamb Boulder
 7
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
The Specialist Sunset Boulders > Lamb Boulder
 5
V4 6B Boulder
Sunset Arete Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Sunset Corner Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Sunset Face Left Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4 R TR, Boulder
Osprey Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Sunset Face Right Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Final Exam Sunset Boulders > Mammoth Rock
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Killer Crack Sunset Boulders > Ram Rock
 11
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V2- 5+ R TR, Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Goat Rock »

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Photos

Don't leave climbing gear in the car (or at least in sight). Had a friend lose several thousand dollars of gear from car break-in while they were out bouldering for a couple of hours in mid day. Oct 4, 2004
seajhay  
just came from the area. was there the last two days and was mostly fogged in... beautiful when the sun did poke through.. will be back in sunnier days later in the summer/early fall Jul 18, 2007
I think it's Goat Rock State Beach, not Goat Rock State Park. Oct 28, 2008
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Just to clarify: "Goat Rock Beach" lies within "Sonoma Coast State Park," (formerly known as Sonoma Coast State Beach) The park stretches from Bodega Head to Meyers Grade and includes Pomo Canyon and the Willow Creek Watershed (excellent mountain biking).

Climbers have been under a microscope here from time to time and future access could be threatened if certain paleontological theories about mammoth rubbings are substantiated. Please be an ambassador for the climbing community by respecting other visitor's experiences at the rocks.

If the Admins were feeling shnazzy they would reformulate this area as Sonoma Coast State Park, with the various individual crags under its heading. Sunset Boulders, Twin Coves, Super Slab and Dry Creek Sea Crag, along with Pomo Canyon and Marshall Gulch, are all within this one park. Mar 12, 2010
beachplus4
So San Francisco
beachplus4   So San Francisco
This place was great this weekend. Cool and nice locals, surfers to watch. I loved it, can't wait to go back! Sep 12, 2010
Casey B
Oakland, California
Casey B   Oakland, California
You can save a few minutes of driving from the listed directions by taking the Railroad Ave exit from the 101 North in Petaluma. Turn left onto Railroad ave, then right on Stony Point Road. Continue on Stony Point for about 2 miles and then turn left onto Roblar Road. Drive on Roblar Road for about 6.5 miles and then turn right at the intersection with Valley Ford road. From there you are on the same route as the posted directions. Sep 4, 2013
Tom McMillan
Marin County, CA
Tom McMillan   Marin County, CA
For Sunset Boulders: If you park a little further north along the road, just before the big hill you can leave your vehicle in clear sight of the climbing area. Apr 26, 2018