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Routes in Ram Rock

Bulge, The TR V2 5+
German Chocolate Cake TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Killer Crack TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c V1 5 R
Osprey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pelican Arete TR V-easy 3
Sea Breeze TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunset Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunset Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunset Face Left TR V0- 4- R
Sunset Face Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunset Slab T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V-easy 3 R
Type: TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,628 total, 20/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Feb 8, 2003 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the interesting and sustained right arete, without using the left arete. Holds are more plentiful around the right side of the arete. Sustained and intersting, this is an excellent warmup route for more advanced climbers, and a difficult yet doable first 5.10.

This route is often bouldered, though the crux is about 10' off the ground, so place your crashpad carefully!

Protection

3 bolt anchor at the top. Bring a long sling (10') to set up a top rope.
Floyd Hayes  
 
I think it's solid 5.10a. I've played around with some options for protection and considered leading it but the crux halfway up cannot be safely protected. It is often free-soloed. Sep 27, 2010
The climb just to the right of the arete is called the pelican crack. Most locals call it 5.11w/o the crack. No way is it 5.10. Feb 13, 2004
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
The Pelican Arete is a fun TR requiring some interesting moves. The Falcon guide rates this at 5.8 which must be a mistake. Hard 9 or 10a is more realistic. The guide also rates the crack to the right of the arete at 10a w/o using the arete. This cannot be! It's at least 10d or harder I would think. Very thin, hard to find edges on steep rock. I don't think climbers breaking into 10's would have a chance on this. The arete requires a couple difficult moves but then eases up. The crack to the right is very sustained right to the top. Unless I'm missing something... I would be interested in hearing others views on this route. If this is 10a, I can't imagine how hard the Sea Breeze route will be! Apr 20, 2003