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Routes in The Central Library

Librarian Lust T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Postmaster Pleasure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

A brown tower with a striking splitter crack is tantalizingly obvious near the top of the gully which heads left out of the Rattlesnake Cyn. This is the gully used on the approach to The Slatanic area and The Polka Dot Wall. The tower is north facing and hence in the shade all day. The one route is Librarian Lust 5.10a *** (3 out of 5 stars).

Getting There

Go up Rattlesnake until the canyon turns west. This is just before you would pass the "Bulkhead," a large brown triangular block 100 meters left of "The Dune" (Rattlesnake Buttress). An obvious gully heads roughly east up the slopes of the Queen Mtn. massif. The right side of the gully is a wall of towers and formations which terminate below a small plateau to the right. This is mentioned in the guide in the Slatanic approach. The Central Library is the 2nd or 3rd formation before the top. It has the obvious splitter of "Librarian Lust" 5.10a which would draw any rock climber like a magnet.

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Photos

The Central Library is 50 meters left of the Bulkhead and at the same level. Apr 2, 2003

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