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Big Bend Butte Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Big Bend Butte

	Clearlight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Grim Reaper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Infrared T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

GPS:	38.65077, -109.47332 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	15,957 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).

Getting There

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.

3 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Bend Butte

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● Grim Reaper Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 20 ● Clearlight Trad 4 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 98 ● Infrared Trad 4 pitches