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Routes in Big Bend Butte
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Clearlight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Grim Reaper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Infrared T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Jay Smith & Conrad Anker - 1995 |
| Page Views: | 11,319 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
An overlooked gem of a tower route! When looking up at the Butte from the road, three splitters are visible on the right side of the buttress. The thin, thin one on the left is Clearlight. The obvious one in the middle (a 6-8" horror) is Dolomite Wall, and the rightmost one is Infrared.
P1: Begin in the first crack system left of the corner formed by Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire. It is a stemming slot up broken rock and roofs to a wide-hands crack. Belay at bolts. 5.10.
P2: Two ways to go. The original route climbs up off the belay, clips a bolt and then immediately steps left on improbable ledges to a steep crack system. Continue up this to a large ledge and ultimately a steep, perfect-fists crack in a corner. Belay below the splitter at bolts. A variation clips the bolt and continues straight up in the obvious wide crack to the same large ledge, up the pillar on the right, then traverses straight left on exposed ramps to the same belay. I've done both variations (we got our ropes stuck on rappel and had to climb it again) and actually recommend the wide crack on the right - but both are very good. 5.10+.
P3: The long, awesome, wide hands/fists splitter! This is the baby that is visable from the road. Climb 120+ feet of beautiful tight fists, past a bolt protecting a loose block, and up to a diagonal crack under a roof (perfect hands here), around the roof, and up to a bolted belay. 5.10+.
P4: Continue up an incredible system of corners and roofs using face holds and broken cracks. You basically follow the overhung dihedral up and right until you are forced left around the arete and onto the final headwall. Many bolts protect this unlikely, awesome pitch. There are two cruxes -- a pumpy one about 40' off the belay, and a technical once you've established yourself around the corner up high. 5.12-.
Four double-rope raps down the route. Make sure to fix the end of one your lines to anchor below the fourth pitch before you depart!!! The top pitch is so overhanging that you will need to reel yourself into the anchor on the first rappel!
P1: Begin in the first crack system left of the corner formed by Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire. It is a stemming slot up broken rock and roofs to a wide-hands crack. Belay at bolts. 5.10.
P2: Two ways to go. The original route climbs up off the belay, clips a bolt and then immediately steps left on improbable ledges to a steep crack system. Continue up this to a large ledge and ultimately a steep, perfect-fists crack in a corner. Belay below the splitter at bolts. A variation clips the bolt and continues straight up in the obvious wide crack to the same large ledge, up the pillar on the right, then traverses straight left on exposed ramps to the same belay. I've done both variations (we got our ropes stuck on rappel and had to climb it again) and actually recommend the wide crack on the right - but both are very good. 5.10+.
P3: The long, awesome, wide hands/fists splitter! This is the baby that is visable from the road. Climb 120+ feet of beautiful tight fists, past a bolt protecting a loose block, and up to a diagonal crack under a roof (perfect hands here), around the roof, and up to a bolted belay. 5.10+.
P4: Continue up an incredible system of corners and roofs using face holds and broken cracks. You basically follow the overhung dihedral up and right until you are forced left around the arete and onto the final headwall. Many bolts protect this unlikely, awesome pitch. There are two cruxes -- a pumpy one about 40' off the belay, and a technical once you've established yourself around the corner up high. 5.12-.
Four double-rope raps down the route. Make sure to fix the end of one your lines to anchor below the fourth pitch before you depart!!! The top pitch is so overhanging that you will need to reel yourself into the anchor on the first rappel!
Photos
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