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Routes in Big Bend Butte

Clearlight T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grim Reaper T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infrared T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Cameron Burns and Benny Bach 1987
Page Views: 326 total, 49/month
Shared By: Robert Rowsam on May 2, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is an adventurous route on the back side of Big Bend Butte, about 500 feet right of Dolomite Spire. It's a little dirty and loose, but a lot of fun. Possibly the easiest way to the top of the Butte.

P1: Start in a large chimney with calcite on the right wall. Climb up past 2 pins and make a few tricky stemming moves past some bushes to a ledge with a 2 pin anchor. 5.10

P2: Continue straight up a chimney to a ledge. Go right at the base of the horrible looking off-width to another large ledge. Climb up than hand traverse back left to the main crack system. Pull over a bulge to a ledge. Belay from large cams. 5.8

P3: Go left and climb over blocks into a chimney. Climb past the chalkstone and exit the chimney to maybe 40 feet of face climbing. Belay at a single pin backed up with a #4 or continue. A red tricam was helpful on this pitch. 5.8

P4: Follow the path of least resistance through a couple bulges and end at a 2 pin anchor. Scramble to the top. 5.8

Decent: Double rope rap from the top to the end of P1, than to the ground. Watch out for the rope eating crack on P2.

Location

On the backside of the Butte about 500 feet right of Dolomite. We approached from the front and did the approach pitch for Lighthouse, than walked over to the route. You could also go up the canyon from the group campsites.

Protection

Single set from C3's to #6. Doubles of fingers/hands if linking pitches or more inclined to place gear. Maybe tricams

Photos

The climbing is better than Cam Burns remembers it but still isn't great. One star for the climbing and another for being the easiest route to the top of a ranked summit.

The pins on P1 seem pretty solid and can be backed up. The climbing is about 5.8 except for one move which is at most 10a.

We found tricams and nuts to be useful.

The summit of Big Bend Butte is on the north end. May 29, 2017