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Windshield Wiper Wall

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Attribute, The S 
Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 
Eggs Anyone S 
Forbiddance S 
Half Hearted S 
Hitchhiker, The S 
Jackknifed S 
Never Go Left S 
Never Go Right S 
Nuclear Sponge S 
Too Drunk to Dream S 
Whiskey on the Southbound S 
Windshield Wiper, The S 

Windshield Wiper Wall  


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Page Views: 2,451
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Windshield Wiper Wall
1. Eggs Anyone 5.10b (left...

Description 

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There 

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',9],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Windshield Wiper Wall:
Half Hearted   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Hitchhiker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
Never Go Left   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Forbiddance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Never Go Right   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nuclear Sponge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Beaten into Submission aka King Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jackknifed   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Windshield Wiper Wall

Featured Route For Windshield Wiper Wall
<a href='/v/half-hearted/107603666'>Half Hearted</a> 5.11a

Half Hearted 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Windshield Wiper Wall
A surprisingly pumpy route on mostly positive holds, but with some nerve-wracking moves on somewhat-less-than-large features.Start at the left of the black water streak; the first bolt is a bit above head height.Climb up the left side of the gritty black streak, occasionally venturing in the tan rock on the left (but you'll not want to delve too deeply into the left—loose choss awaits and your belayer will be unhappy).Fight the pump, and wonder around the sixth or seventh bolt if it wi...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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