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Windshield Wiper Wall

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Attribute, The S 
Beaten into Submission aka King Line S 
Eggs Anyone S 
Forbiddance S 
Half Hearted S 
Hitchhiker, The S 
Jackknifed S 
Never Go Left S 
Never Go Right S 
Nuclear Sponge S 
Too Drunk to Dream S 
Whiskey on the Southbound S 
Windshield Wiper, The S 

Windshield Wiper Wall  


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Page Views: 2,383
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on May 12, 2012
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Clear
82° | 54°
Partly Cloudy
75° | 49°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
81° | 54°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
74° | 49°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
70° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Windshield Wiper Wall
1. Eggs Anyone 5.10b (left...

Description 

The Windshield Wiper Wall is a tall, shady collection of steep faces. Right next to the road, there is effectively zero approach. A plethora of quickdraws are needed (up to 27 draws are needed for a single route).

The routes are mostly .12- (eight), a .12c, three .11s, and a single specimen of 5.10.

See this description of the Willy Stick for an account of how this wall got its name.

Getting There 

After about a half mile drive up the canyon, a wide, dark streak appears between two tan-colored walls on the left side of the road. A dark chain anchor is visible midway up on the wall to the right of the streak.

During the winter months the streak hosts the ice route Bottomless and Topless.

Park at a shallow pullout on the right (or across the road at a deeper pullout on the left) and walk back down canyon a hundred feet or so. An obvious trail/drainage-from-the-streak will appear on the south side of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

13 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',9],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Windshield Wiper Wall:
Half Hearted   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Hitchhiker   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
Never Go Left   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Forbiddance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Never Go Right   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Nuclear Sponge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Beaten into Submission aka King Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Jackknifed   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Windshield Wiper Wall

Featured Route For Windshield Wiper Wall
<a href='/v/the-hitchhiker/107603650'>The Hitchhiker</a> 5.11c

The Hitchhiker 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : Windshield Wiper Wall
A long, long route by Maple standards, this line will leave you exhausted and feeling like you just ascended three pitches with several cruxes.Begin by using big, positive holds past the first bolt to a ledge. A tricky, strenuous crux awaits up a vertical section to another "ledgy" bit and a good rest.Another cruxy section to another rest. Another cruxy section. Another rest. Repeat.The total bolt count on this route is 25 plus anchors, although several of the bolts can be profitably sk...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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