West Ridge, Mount Conness
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BETA PHOTO: On the West Ridge of Mt. Conness
A fun back country route. Just stay on the ridge as much as possible for the best climbing on the best granite.
Tuolumne Meadows backcountry. There are a few different methods for approaching Conness, but the trail(s) from Tioga Pass works...There's also a good way starting just west of Lembert Dome going up to Young Lakes...then it's cross country through to Conness creek, which if followed all the way to its source will land you in Roosevelt lake. Hiking southeast from here will get you into the vicinity of the West Ridge of Conness.
if you plan on roping up for the whole climb, just bring a regular rack...Most of the climb can be soloed or simul-climbed at easy albeit moderate 5th class high country climbing.
|Photos of West Ridge, Mount Conness Slideshow
Deron scoping out the start of the W Ridge
Miguel and Deron starting up
checking out the sheer SW face (Harding Route)
almost to the summit
back down to the meadows
John Kaz up on the West Ridge of Conness, July 201...
John Kaz way up on the West Ridge of Conness, July...
Up an exposed knife-edge along the West Ridge. 27...
Further up the West Ridge. 27 Aug 2011.
In alpine ventures, good to have someone along who...
Up beautiful granite along ridgeline edge in breat...
Once on the summit, checking the peak's identifica...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the start of p1
Mary and Rico high up on the ridge
Reaching the summit a bit late!
West Ridge fun!
west ridge, conness
Tristan on pitch 2 of the West ridge
start of Pitch 1, West ridge
near the top of the West ridge
BETA PHOTO: Down climb from Summit of West Ridge, Mount Connes...
Plenty of wind breaks if you want to sleep near su...
Pitch 1 - 2 of west ridge ( we simul-climbed thes...
higher up the west ridge,with view of the sheer fa...
Looking down the west ridge
|Comments on West Ridge, Mount Conness
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 8, 2010
This can be tough to find from the back side, Tioga Pass. You have to stay more right than you would think.
If you do approach from the Saddlebag Lake area, as opposed to from Lembert Dome, you have the option to downclimb the North Ridge and hike out that way. It makes for a nice long day out in the back country.
Very nice views off the ridge, stay as close to it as possible.
Jul 12, 2011
At a slide show a few years back, Croft said that-- after his 9,000 foot, one-day Karakoram 5.11 route-- this was his favorite rock route. Jokes notwithstanding (Q: What is Peter Croft's favorite rock route? A: Whatever he's just climbed), you can see why.
This is the best alpine rock route at its grade (and one of the best at ANY grade) I have done. You can EASILY free-solo it: there is one dicey section (the rock bridge) which is exposed, but easy; the rest is a 5.6 ladder on impeccable rock, a billion solid incut holds, and good cracks. Loads of places to stop and admire the view. Then you top out, and look waaaaay down into the Valley, and feel all bad-assed up there at 13,000 feet.
We were going to do the Harding route, but my partner didn't feel up to it. So, instead of going back by upclimbing the choss approach, we did the West Ridge...and it was so good that we didn't put our harneses on, just simul-soloed the whole thing, massive shit-eating grins on our faces...it was so good we didn't want to stop.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 8, 2011
We had to bail after 4 pitches but they were great. As you gain the ridge, try to stay as close as possible to climbers' left. This is where the classic climbing is, including stellar parallel cracks and wicked exposure on the ridge proper. We climbed 4 pitches and bailed down the gully to climber's right dude to extremely high winds. We made 4 rappels using a 70m rope. I believe we rappeled very close to where the guidebook's description of the route goes.
|By Al Peery|
Apr 6, 2012
This is my favorite alpine solo climbing! Great views, exposure and so much fun!
I use the North Ridge to access the West Ridge for a full day of ridge running. I often find loose rock sections downclimbing the first rappel on the North ridge, but downclimbing the blocks on the second rappel is more solid than it looks.