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Routes in Mt. Conness

Friendly Muscle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
South West Face (Harding) Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: Galen Rowell & Barry Hagen, 1969
Page Views: 23,999 total, 189/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jun 24, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The North Ridge of Conness is a striking line. I would call it more of a "ridge scramble" than an actual rock climb, so if you are expecting a technical rock route, you might be a little let down. With the exception of (bypassed by easy 5th class downclimbing), the rest of the route is 3rd and 4th class.

Even if soloing the route, count on a full day, as you will be covering a lot of ground.

Refer to the "Location" section below for general approach information. From the initial steep headwall, scramble up (4th class) to gain the ridge. (mostly 3rd class with occasional 4th), staying left of the first Tower. At the , either make (both have fixed anchors) or scramble down easy 5th class for 40 and 60 feet, respectively. From here, to the summit. Stay close to the edge for maximum value. From the summit, take in the spectacular views of Tuolumne and down into the Valley before descending the East Ridge.

Location

From the trailhead at Saddlebag Lake (10,060'), hike or ferry across the lake ($7 one-way, $10 round trip). Follow a trail for a short distance, then cross-country up the Conness Lakes drainage. No need to bring excessive amounts of water, as water is readily available all the way up to the toe of the glacier. At the last tarn, you will encounter a steep headwall to gain the ridge. Pick the path of least resistance (4th class). Allow a minimum of 2 hours for the approach.

Protection

A single rope may be desired by some parties for 2 short rappels that are readily avoided by an easy downclimb. A rack is unnecessary unless you plan on leading the 4th class sections. In that case, a light alpine rack will suffice.

Photos

JaredG
Tucson, AZ
JaredG   Tucson, AZ
I hiked in to Roosevelt Lake and approached from that side -- you can get up to the ridge with nothing harder than 4th class. I wasted a lot of time at the second tower, so I'll spray some more beta.

There were no less than 3 rappel anchors (left slings) -- one right at the top of the tower, another maybe 20 feet right below, and a third further out along the ridge. You probably only need the first and third. It seems like it would be difficult and a bit dangerous to stay on rappel from the first anchor to the last because it's quite far along the ridge -- you might risk a huge pendulum, and anyway the scrambling to get to last rappel anchor is mostly pretty easy. I think the easiest way to proceed is: 1) rappel from the high anchor down to a ledgy area below, then pull the rope. 2) scramble up a bit and along the ridge (i.e. towards the summit of Mt Conness) until the going looks pretty steep, then spot the last set of slings, 3) rappel again to another ledgy area. If you're standing atop the 2nd tower and facing the summit, all the rappels should be on right side of the ridgeline. Aug 2, 2017
Guillaume Lamontagne
San Francisco
Guillaume Lamontagne   San Francisco
Fun solo starting from Saddlebag lake and walking on the north side of all the little ponds all the way to the North ridge. I rappelled on the second tower as it seemed quite steep to me (two good anchors). The rest can be easily soloed. Nice scramble following the East ridge on the way back. Just head East all the way to the weather station and keep going on the ridge until you approach the next peak. From there, you can drop left into a scree slope (some trails) to reach the south side of Greenstone lake just west of Saddlebag lake. Done this way, it's a big nice loop! Sep 3, 2015
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
I dropped my camera case (with a camera, a few batteries, etc.) on top of the 1st rappel station yesterday on July 25th. It got stuck somewhere in a crack and we couldn't find it, I am pretty positive it is gone for good but if anybody manages to find it or get it somehow then i would really appreciate it if they could return it.

My email is borisshvidchenko@gmail.com

Thanks in advanced and awesome route! Highly recommend. Jul 26, 2015
Just to be clear for folks who plan on leaving gear home for this climb, expect exposed 5.6 moves. The rappels are not mandatory, thus the rating should not be stated as "easy 5th"...this may be misleading.

Also, I doubt you will be disappointed regardless of what you expect, it's a great route. Jul 25, 2015
cjw
 
cjw  
 
My wife and I did this last week, super fun route. Took us 11.5 hours car to car, with an hour lost at tower two.

Notes on rappel: we never found the second rappel anchor after an hour of searching. I don't get the 30' on the first rappel. Final for us was 70' first rappel to small sandy ledge, traverse straight across, this puts you at the crotch of the notch, throw a sling there, and rappel another 60'. Jul 25, 2015
Hello MountainProject

I did this route July 20th, 2014 and I found a digital camera at the first rappel. Please comment here and I can get it back to you.

... And the route, Pure Fun! Jul 28, 2014
Good Lord. Sep 6, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
^^^ Agree 500% Sep 2, 2013
Yosemitesam  
 
Geez, is there no adventure in mountaineering anymore... Aug 30, 2013
kenr
 
kenr  
 
Did it yesterday ... Lots of fun interesting climbing and opportunities for exposure in the upper third, if you stay exactly on the crest as much as possible. I suspect in the upper section lots of people get over-eager to just "get to the top" and start just following the "line of least resistance".

Approach is mostly friendly and pretty (except the steep dirt near the top), but I missed the most efficient line, which holds close to the North side of valley which runs east down from the Conness - NorthPk col. My mistake was at the W end of Greenstone Lake the ground was wet, so I avoided it by going straight West, but I should have turned NW at that point.
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Navigation details at the second tower:
Here's what I remember from yesterday ...

The first (higher) rappel anchor is pretty much at the summit of the second tower. The ridge runs roughly NW-SE at that point, and the normal second rappel anchor is about as far SE-ward from the first as it is down-ward. That is, the second is diagonally below the first.

So I assume that you can aim the first rappel (one guidebook says it's about 30 ft) slightly towards the second anchor, but then each climber still must do some horizontal traverse scrambling to get from the bottom of their rappel to the second anchor.
(and it would be unwise to finish the first rappel too far below the second anchor -- so make sure you've spotted it before you go down very far -- better yet, before you start rappelling).

Second rappel (one guidebook says it's about 60 ft, which would require a rope about 120 ft / 37 meters) -- it makes sense to aim it slightly SE (toward the summit). Only go down until you feel comfortable traversing horizontally toward the summit.
(Of course if the strongest climber down-climbs after belaying (or lowering) the others down, could bring a shorter rope).

Make only one rappel? Because of the diagonal configuration of the two anchors, I don't see how it could work to use a very long single rope starting from the top of the second tower, and arrive at the bottom in any position very helpful for continuing to climb up the North ridge. If you want to make only one rappel, then you've got to do some ...

Down-climbing:
It's a good idea to first spot that second rappel anchor when Down-climbing -- say like 30 ft below and 30 ft SE from the summit of the second tower. Because if you make the obvious guess that the second anchor is somewhere directly below the first, you could waste lots of time looking for a workable down-climb route (as I discovered).

What worked for me was to stay overall fairly close to the crest of the ridge (which at that point is running SE down-ward), soon move to the NE side, then across to the SW side and on down to that second anchor. One guidebook says the difficulty is about 5.5, seems close enough. Some thoughtful + exposed moves the way I did it.

Next I started straight down from the second (lower) rappel anchor, then went SE (toward the summit) around a corner at an obvious place. Then I down-climbed a dihedral, holds felt pretty positive if used creatively with body position and footwork. Felt like not more than 5.6 - (though of course if you haven't practiced down-climbing 5.6 or harder on Top-Rope a few times, could be rather intimidating to try it first time at 11,000 ft).
Then as soon as felt comfortable, I traversed horizontally out of the dihedral SE toward the summit.
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more climbing ... Two interesting and very exposed down-climbing sequences on the first tower: (1) Go all the way out to the end of the prong at the S end of the top of the first tower. Go down directly off the end of the prong. Finish a bit on the E side; then optionally (2) go down a ramp to the W side, then below the ramp diagonal down toward the E side. Finish by climbing up 10 ft to the crest of the ridge. Aug 12, 2013
I highly recommend climbing something on North Peak first as that descent drops you right at the start of the North Ridge on Conness. I did the right-most ice couloir on North Peak, which meant having to carry my crampons, axes, and mtn boots in a pack while climbing the North Ridge. Not too bad. The downclimb after the second tower was the crux of the whole route; steep but with good secure jambs. 7.5 hours C2C for the linkup. 2 hours approach to the base of N Peak, 2 hour descent from Conness back to the car at Saddlebag Lake. Jul 10, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
3 stars for the views, but 2 stars for the climbing. Jul 17, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
The upper third of this route is great, you can stay pretty much right on the ridge and enjoy the views. The rock quality is quite good and it is clean.

I down climbed this route after climbing the West Ridge which makes for a great day out and lots of time spent on rock along ridges. If you are going to do this I think downclimbing the North Ridge is the way to go as it means climbing up the harder sections since they are rappels.

7.5 hrs c2c, but I was wishing I had cash to take the ferry back across the lake by the end. Feb 8, 2010
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Very fun route. The second half is like Cathedral Peak. Duke and I soloed it ctc in about 10 hours with lots of time to relax and enjoy the scenery. We also summited North Peak on the way. Highly recommend this side trip.

Trekking poles are also recommended during an early season ascent. As of July 1st, there are many snowfields to cross on both the ascent and descent. Jul 2, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Really fun route! The beta here and in the supertopo are pretty right on. We brought a rope and a very light rack and simulclimbed from the second tower to the summit. Truth is, I was glad to have a little gear in, I know I did some moves that felt 5.6ish up there (but I probably could have looked around for an easier passage.) Not a problem, but the wind was HOWLING! Nice to have that security blanket...

Took us 9.5 hours c2c. We hiked pretty well, although we did lose a little time (no big deal, weren't racing) letting a couple rap our lines. If you solo this you could definitely go much faster, don't have to rig and pull the raps, and save that weight on the hike. We moved pretty steadliy, took a couple breaks and enjoyed the summit.

Have fun! Aug 6, 2007