The Squamish Butt Face 

This is a great addition, thank you Sonnie Trotter et al for establishing this! The first pitch offers great exposure on a 5.8, while the second pitch will likely offer 5.9 leaders a new experience. It's clean and ready to go.

I skipped the belay bolts and continued on the ledge till time to go up, and belayed there with the bolt and a nut. Less rope drag and easier communication on the second pitch.

So much fun. I misunderstood the topo to think that the last pitch is 5.5, but it's the crux pitch with a 5.9 weird corner/flaring chimney section. It's rad, rig the pitches so you can do it. You don't need wide gear for it, but if you're squeamish you could probably fit a #4 Camelot in the back.

Great route, thanks Sonnie! I think I'm with Steve on skipping the belay bolts, waiting until the switchback/mantle significantly reduces rope drag for the chimney section. You can belay either off the bolt and gear or off the tree at the end of the ledge. The ledges to the top are easy, but pretty exposed and I definitely felt more comfortable plugging the occasional piece of gear (with generous runners) and staying roped for this section rather than scrambling.

An easy fun route to take a novice to the top of the Chief. The "shoulder crack" pitch is fun. You can get up to the start of this route via a number of routes, we found that cruising up Slab Alley and Granville Street was the best as the other lines are usually quite busy on a sunny weekend.

You do not need a #4 camalot for this. A .5 and a #1 or #2 perfectly protect that weird very cool flareg pseudo-chimney thingy.

If you have the option of doing this or the 10c, I would recommend the 10c-- it is a much cleaner, more direct etc pitch, but this is a great bypass for those who are tired and don't want to make the other 27 Sunday afternoon Buttress parties wait until dark while they aid the 10c pitch ;-)

Updated route info here .. Sonnie Trotters topo doesn't seem to be that accurate.

Squamish Butt Face