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The Squamish Butt Face (Butt lite)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 341
votes
Routes in Squamish Buttress
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Bylaw Officer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Community Service T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Samaritan T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heatwave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oaklan's Tack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pan Tease Lower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Squamish Butt Face (Butt lite), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squamish Buttress, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 49.6846, -123.1447 |
| FA: | L. Zamorano, B. Moon, S. Trotter |
| Page Views: | 30,802 total · 165/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Aug 20, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This variation to the Squamish Buttress climbs the first four pitches then breaks left avoiding the 10.c crux pitch of the original route.
From the base of the fifth pitch head left behind a large boulder to a belay made by slinging another large detached flake.
P5- 5.9 - Small flakes and cracks with thin feet lead up a short wall. The route then traverses left along a edge and up some steps. Belay at the first anchor or keep going another 10m to a second anchor below the chimney.
P6 - 5.8+ - A short chimney is the final technical challenge. Can be protected with a BD#4, a #5 will fit but is not required. As the chimney closes out near the top good horizontal holds are found above. Several wide ledges follow and a few mantles will see you to the tree belay.
P7 - Low 5th class scrambling takes you to the top. Walk to the north end of the peak to take the rebar ladder down to the main trail or hike south across the peak to follow the hikers trail.
Photos
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