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Routes in Squamish Buttress

Pan Tease Lower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squamish Butt Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squamish Buttress, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey et al 1959
Page Views: 11,400 total · 91/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Nov 30, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

133 Opinions

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Pitch 1: starts below the small roofs, where there is a pin to protect the move. Angle around the left edge and up with minimal gear. Belay at a small tree about half way across the slab (5.8)
Pitch 2: Continue left across the slab on more sparse gear placements, but easy climbing to another tree at the start of a ledge (5.5
Pitch 3: After moving the belay around the corner to the left, climb easy 5th class corners for a full rope length to a good ledge surrounded by trees. The best moves are the top of this pitch. This can also be done in two pitches if desired. (5.7)
Pitch 4: A short pitch, that can be tricky to locate as it is all rather blocky. Climb almost straight out of the belay to the obvious steep crack that ends quickly on a ledge, then follow easier ground to the large open ledge at the base of the headwall (5.9)
Pitch 5: The reason to have groveled through the trees over lesser terrain to this point. A steep, beautiful north facing corner at the outside edge of the wall. It is gained by climbing the cracks to its right, off the ledge. Step left into the corner and jam and stem to the crux just below the exit. This is protected by an old pin, with great gear placements everywhere that will allow for a little old fashioned AO if needed. Step up onto the ledge to a bolt belay, bring the second up, then rap down and do it again! (5.10C)
Pitch 6: Follow easy ledges that wander up to the base of the Raven's Castle. (5.6)
Climb one of the Raven's Castle routes to the top, or move right around the bottom of the rock to pick up easier trails. descend via the tourist trail down the back.


From the top of Memorial Crack or Rock On, find the obvious trail heading up through the trees and trending right to the base of the wall. There are several fainter trails, but they all lead to the start of the first pitch, which is below several small roofs.


Standard rack with gear up to 3 inches. Singles on most everything will be fine with finger to small hand size pieces for the crux pitch, with stoppers at the bottom of the same. A .75 Camalot works nicely above the pin at the crux on Pitch 5
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
The crux pitch is outstanding, and worth the all the scrambling to do it once. The crux pitch seemed heavy on the small cam/nut size to me. I placed a full set of C3s on the pitch in various locations. The crux doesn't climb like your typical Squamish fingercrack.... lots of body english and other fun stuff keep it interesting Aug 3, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
While most of this route is vertical hiking, the crux pitch is worth all the scrambling. 5.10 fingers for half a rope length, super fun. The missing pin doesnt affect the pro at all- take a single rack to 3", and double up the fingers and you'll be pretty happy.

If you do the direct start, anticipate 5.10 climbing on the pitch. The book said 5.9 and I'd call that pretty sandbagged- techy 5.9 to a low 5.10 crux and then really sustained 5.9/5.10a climbing through the bolts and crack (its definitely harder than Memorial Crack and Karen's Math down below). Jul 16, 2010
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Most of the climbing on this route isn't that good but the money pitch is worth every penny!

We wanted to link everything up to the start of the money pitch into two pitches. You might be able to do that with a 70m. Don't know if you could link P1 & 2 while belaying from the ledge the whole time. There was about 30' of rope left when the leader yelled down to me that he was on a good ledge, I put my shoes on and started simuling when the rope came tight. It was pretty chill but maybe not recommended if you're near your limit because the slab moves are solid for the grade. That said, the leader will be on fourth class grooves at that point if not already at a tree belay on the shoulder of the buttress. From the shoulder, you can link everything up to the belay ledge for the crux pitch without simuling. If you do this, save the #3 for the last 5.8/5.9 vert section and if you're at your limit, break it into separate a mini pitch because you'd end up on the ledge if you blew it with that much rope out. Enjoy! It's a classic, especially if you link into it from Rock On or another 5 star apron route! Aug 29, 2011
Johnny Y
Johnny Y   California
As of August 2012 the fixed pin on the crux pitch is gone, but most of the pitch is easily protectable, finger/ring locks are solid, definitely the money pitch.

Pitch 1+2 can be linked but use lots of long slings to avoid terrible rope drag. Nov 15, 2012
like others have stated, mostly steep walking to a nice 5.10 pitch. definitely worth doing once, as linking up the apron (or other approach) to the top of the chief at a reasoble grade makes for a nice day. also, the climbing is easy enough that bringing comfortable descent shoes, food, water, etc isn't a hassle.

we did the 1st pitch 5.9 variation. the start is unpleasantly awkward, but the rest of the pitch is pretty good. the crux pitch takes excellent small gear and the climbing is very nice. Aug 5, 2013
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I agree with these folks, the money pitch is awesome. I think it should have a more inspiring name, like "The White Tower" or something.

If you want to sew it up good, medium/large nuts (especially offset nuts!) and cams around BD 0.4/yellow alien are what you want. I didn't spot the piton that protects the topout until I stepped on it while belaying, but you can also use a hand-size cam (0.75 or 1) to protect the topout. Leave the bigger stuff with your second. Jul 27, 2015
B. Smith
Denver, CO
B. Smith   Denver, CO
An alpine adventure with an amazing finger crack to top it off. We got a 4am walking start from the campground. Such a wonderful day out on the rock! Sep 15, 2015
This is a fun way to get to (one of) the summit(s) of the Chief even if the climbing is a bit blocky, wandering and broken up by forest walking. I found all of the actual climbing to be fun and of at least decent quality. Since it was the first thing visible after hiking above the top of Boomstick Crack, we chose the direct .10a start and found it to be of high quality. Adding the Buttress to an Apron route just makes sense, although the final pitch could become somewhat of a choke point on a busy day. If waiting for others to finish, however, the ledge below is a great place to hang out. Aug 3, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Route (and area) is currently closed due to falcon nesting. Check here for updates:… Jun 19, 2017
That finger crack.... Mah gawd, what a beauty! Bring lots of nuts for the crux pitch as in my opinion cams were tougher to place except on occasion. Aug 3, 2017
Such a fantastic climb. We started on Rock on and continued into the buttress. A video of the crux pitch can be found here if you want the beta.… Aug 19, 2017

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