The Phoenix 5.13a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | (TR) Ray Jardine and John Lakey, April 1976, FFA (Lead) Mark Hudon, May 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006 |
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Bill Price leading "The Phoenix", 1981.
Photo by B...
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description "The Phoenix" sits high on the wall, west of Cascade Falls.
This awesome crack is the first 5.13 recorded.
Location From the west side of Tamarack Creek Bridge, 2 miles west of Hwy 120/140 junction. Walk down to a flat area, cross a stream and continue to the brink of the cliff, rappel to the base of the crack.
Protection Small to 2.25".
View of the climb in its entirety from the belay.
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Hidetaka Suzuki, 1987
photo by bob gaines
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The Phoenix
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Ray Jardine on The Phoenix (5.13a), Yosemite Valle...
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 2, 2007
| It also has some interesting looking piton-scar chipped holds. |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 10, 2009
| True, the chipped/beat-out pinscar pockets are a shame. the route would be quite a bit harder without them. |
By Drewsky
Apr 18, 2009
| They're so nice and smooth for your fingers, though!
Also, ants can sometimes provide a miserable experience at the belay 'stance', as can failing to bring a belay seat of some sort. |
By skinny legs and all
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 8, 2013
| Ray Jardine purposely chipped holds to make the first free ascent, it just is not discussed often. Also, Jerry Moffatt was the first person to flash The Phoenix in 1984. This was at the height of his training for and traveling to hard cracks around the world, before he took up sport climbing. |
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