Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Stikine Ice Cap

Select Area...
Devil's Thumb 

Stikine Ice Cap Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 57, -132.3 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,365
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 24, 2009
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Burkett Needle (L) and Mt Burkett (R) from the air...


The Southeast panhandle of Alaska is a labyrinthine landscape of massive islands, wandering straits and mysterious mainland mountain ranges. The region’s independent fishing communities are few and far between, connected by complex networks of seaborn ferries and propeller driven air fleets that give the area a frontier feel, where opportunities abound, and the stakes are high.

Along the still disputed Canadian border, just over 100 miles southeast of Juneau, lies a massive network of ice-choked valleys and slicing granite spires known as the Stikine Ice Cap. Summits in this part of the world are not terribly high, and perhaps this has doomed the region to relative obscurity, but what these peaks lack in height they make up for in Napoleonic aggression. Home to such fearsome sights as the Devil’s Thumb, Burkett Needle, and the Cat’s Ear Spires, the Stikine Ice Cap is brimming with possibilities.

This region is known for its uncooperative weather, so any expedition should prepare accordingly. Precipitation is extreme, due to the coastal proximity, and dense fog is pervasive. Ascents in this region have been made at all times of year, though mid to late summer ascents are the most common.

Getting There 

Home to a robust economy based on fishing, logging, and the seasonal Cruise Ship industry, the quaint Scandinavian village of Petersburg, AK provides all the amenities and the perfect jumping-off point for an adventure on the Ice Cap. Alaska Airlines offers service to Petersburg from Seattle and other major Alaskan cities. From Petersburg, air travel to the ice cap can be arranged via TEMSCO Helicopters, Inc Be advised air travel is extremely constrained by weather conditions. Lodging, food & cooking fuel are readily available in town, but climbing-specific equipment is not available. The local city park offers reasonably priced camping for those awaiting a “Thumb’s Up Day” for air transport.

Another option for the pure of heart (or light of wallet) is to arrange boat transport to the toe of the Baird Glacier and ski/trek up onto the ice cap.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 87.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Stikine Ice Cap
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing moderate snow slopes up towards the first...

Direct East Ridge 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow  AK : Southeastern Alaska/Coastal... : ... : Devil's Thumb
The Direct East Ridge is the route immortalized in Steck & Roper's "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". Though an excellent climb, the route is anything but 'direct', as it replaces a few hundred yards of steep snow with half a day of rock climbing. The route gains the East Ridge at the lowest point at which its steep rock buttresses first protrude through the surrounding snow slopes, rather than climbing steep snow on the SE face to gain the ridge higher up.There is some confusion over th...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Stikine Ice Cap Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The southwest aspect of Devil's Thumb, with the Ca...
The southwest aspect of Devil's Thumb, with the Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Flying over Thomas Bay, approaching the Patterson ...
Flying over Thomas Bay, approaching the Patterson ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Map of the Stikine Ice Cap with key landmarks indi...
Map of the Stikine Ice Cap with key landmarks indi...

Comments on Stikine Ice Cap Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!