Patrick Hudson throws the crux move on a chilly da...
This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.
The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts. I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag. This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care. Overall this climb present a fun jaunt.
This climb was fun, but a little more than average dirty/crumbly towards the middle and top.
By John Wilder From: Las Vegas, NV Jan 13, 2008 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
first of all, .10b this isn't- its .10d for sure. Second, whats with the weird non-finish? The anchors are essentially reached from the ledge below, despite the headwall thats easily climbed between. weird. good route, though. the less than bold may want a yellow alien or purple camalot to protect the first 15' or so.
By Fink From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT Mar 10, 2010 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
For the brave, the crux move on the roof sets up reasonably well for a figure-4. Even with a bolt at your waist, it's a little heady though.
BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again.
By Socka From: Bloomington, IN Dec 1, 2011 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Very nice, I would agree with .10 d if you do not have any beta. 3rd and the last bolts are loose. Btw the climb is not over until you stand up on the top of the pinackle.
By matthysj From: Las Vegas, Nevada Dec 8, 2012 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Pulling roof seems harder than 10+. Options seem to be a big dyno to rail or heal hook to undercling way left of bolt. Aiding on the quick draw was my method of choice.
By Edward Pyune From: Las Vegas, NV Mar 21, 2013 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Finally got my redpoint! As John mentioned, a purple C4 is nice to protect before the first bolt. Using 2 double shoulder length draws (1 for the cam) and a single shoulder length draw for the first bolts before the roof is great for rope drag. 10c for the crux move, 10d for the whole climb, as there are still quite a few moves (albeit juggy) till you reach the top.
Killis, I'd be game to help out - if you don't have ASCA glue-ins I'd be willing to chip in for some. This route is super fun!
By MN norske From: Henderson Nov 30, 2013 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Got my red point on this after the 2nd attempt. If you are solid at this grade have no worries but if you are pushing the grade worry about the 3rd bolt (crux) and last (crazy unsafe as in i was pushing it back in and it would slide out a 1/2 inch). This climb is epic but needs now bolts. I would help out as mentioned in recent post to replace them.