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Karsten in side view on Side Effects.
This sporty route climbs a short crack and then huecos up a large detached boulder that guards the entrance to Moderate Mecca.
The lower crack could be protected by natural gear but contains several bolts. I would recommend unclipping the first bolt after passing it to reduce drag. This climb is almost a one move wonder but the rest of the climbing is so good you don't care. Overall this climb present a fun jaunt.
Chains at top
Karsten tops out on the only small holds on the ro...
Patrick Hudson throws the crux move on a chilly da...
me leading Side Effects in the Moderate Mecca at R...
Chris G. on Side Effects
climbing till you can't climb anymore.
|By Matt McMurray|
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 7, 2006
I thought this route was great fun. Following a well-protected dyno in the middle, the overhanging huecos make for a great climb! If you climb too slowly, the pump will catch you before the top...
|By Robbie the Dog|
Dec 31, 2007
This climb was fun, but a little more than average dirty/crumbly towards the middle and top.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 13, 2008
first of all, .10b this isn't- its .10d for sure. Second, whats with the weird non-finish? The anchors are essentially reached from the ledge below, despite the headwall thats easily climbed between. weird. good route, though. the less than bold may want a yellow alien or purple camalot to protect the first 15' or so.
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Mar 10, 2010
For the brave, the crux move on the roof sets up reasonably well for a figure-4. Even with a bolt at your waist, it's a little heady though.
May 23, 2010
BTW, the bolt protecting the crux throw/figure four/A2 move is junk (ie, tolerable if you were in the Fisher towers). john, we should hit that one sometime before it cools down enough to climb here again.
From: Bloomington, IN
Dec 1, 2011
Very nice, I would agree with .10 d if you do not have any beta. 3rd and the last bolts are loose. Btw the climb is not over until you stand up on the top of the pinackle.
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Dec 8, 2012
Pulling roof seems harder than 10+. Options seem to be a big dyno to rail or heal hook to undercling way left of bolt. Aiding on the quick draw was my method of choice.
|By Edward Pyune|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 21, 2013
Finally got my redpoint! As John mentioned, a purple C4 is nice to protect before the first bolt. Using 2 double shoulder length draws (1 for the cam) and a single shoulder length draw for the first bolts before the roof is great for rope drag. 10c for the crux move, 10d for the whole climb, as there are still quite a few moves (albeit juggy) till you reach the top.
The bolt at the crux move is a spinner