just did this again on May 1. last time I climbed it was around 1983. no doubt about it this is a great crack climb.
By Matt Chan From: Boulder May 10, 2004 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
Did the direct start which definitely increased the difficulty to a solid 8. Probably the best route I've done in J-Tree at the grade. You've got to love the nut placements that pop up at you when you start to sweat - super bomber and right before or after cruxlike sections. Fun!!!
This thing ate so much gear I was sorry to see it come to an end. I think I placed 11 pieces and 9 of them nuts. Stellar climb, probably best saved for a less busy weekday if you have the chance as I did.
By Locker From: Yucca Valley, CA Mar 19, 2005 rating: 5.75a15V+MVS 4b
I lead this a few weeks back and forgot to ad my two cents worth... I agree that is it a very, nice route, that protects extremly well. Placing those damned nuts was a ball! Hell, you could just about do the route with any type of gear.......or no gear at all! It's all there for the taking and a deffinate 'Must do' in my eyes. And though it is so popular, it is very often there for the taking year round.........
CLASSIC!!! Good jams, locks, and face holds where you need them. Excellent feet all around the crack, and this thing eats gear, especially nuts. Face section did not seem difficult, but this will depend on how early or late you leave the crack. Rap bolts are good as of 12/28. Excellent route, but extremely popular. Take a number, but wait out the line - it's worth it!
What an absolute joy of a route. I can't recall having that much fun on such a beautiful hand and finger crack! It only has one weakness...it's over too quickly.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Mar 2, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
Really fun crack climb! So sad its so short. :( Considering some feel this route is "soft" 5.8, I personnally felt it was harder than climbs like 'Dappled Mare'. Even so, I had just finished 'Bird On a Wire' (btw, never did feel the .10a moves come into play) and drove over to Hidden Tower right afterward, feeling 'Sail Away' was a tougher 5.8. JMO.
By DaveGustafson From: Palm Desert, CA Mar 29, 2009 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
Great route! Have been putting this route off for some time and glad we were able to tick this today. Enjoyed the whole experience that this route offered, cool moves, nice protection AND especially enjoyed the easy escape with the rap anchors :)
If, like me, 5.8 is the limit of what you lead, and you've led Mental Physics a couple of times, and come to this route thinking that at 5.8- it can't be much harder than Mental Physics at 5.7+, you're in for a surprise. This was one of the most exciting climbs I've ever done. What a treat!
The polished hand crack is just beautiful. Totally forgiving for people (like me) who are still working on mastering placing nuts. Every move at 5.8 can be well-protected.
If you have big hands (as I do) you won't get more than one or two good hand jams. There is a really neat spot just below a hard move mid-way where you can hook your fingertips solidly on a vertical ledge within the crack.
Absolutely beautiful. Glad I led it, and with a couple of great guys.
Fully committing to reach each stance was the key for me to make it a solid lead. On my first lead here I tried to place pro midway through a move and it was a nightmare. Bottom line: find the stances and it's enjoyable, blow/not reach them and it's a scary lead.
By Matt N From: Santa Barbara, CA Nov 4, 2011 rating: 5.85b16VI-HVS 4c
Awesome line and lead! Glad to have found it with no climbers on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.
Lighten your rack beta: I didn't place anything over a .75 camalot and I'm not a bold leader. Take up to a #1 and carry extra nuts if you want to sew it up.