The Eliminator Boulder, climber on the Right Elimi...
Climb the classic SW arete of the Eliminator boulder on the West face. Jump, lockoff, or otherwise crank from the crimps up to lefthand layback, then up (easiest variation grabs arete then grabs traingle and up from there). Eliminator boulder is the largest one, just downhill from the parking lot, 15 yards from the ridgeline.
The "Original" Right Eliminator disappeared at least 20 years ago. The crux move was a wrapped loop of your index or middle finger and thumb around a pigeon egg sized iron-stone concretion with your right hand and then a dyno to the prominent horn starting off of the huge slab that "USED" to be at the start of both of the 2 Gill routes. At some point in the early 80's some lowlife managed to dig out the slab and garden the now cushy landing. At the same time the "egg" broke and it's remnants are the sharp black "tooth" . Also the great flat edge that most people dyno to to start the arete or standard version wasn't there. It used to be a horrible sloper side pull but that broke off too, and the result was the great flat edged hold that is the first good hold on either route. That said, the arete was undoable until the sidepull broke and the new hold formed but in doing so opened up the best route at all of Rotary the "Arete".
Oh dear ! I haven't inspected it in a long time. It's too bad the holds broke off and the base was altered (or wore away). It used to be a delightful dynamic problem. But it sounds like something good was born out of the unintentional gardening, like a phoenix from the ashes.
Other starting BETA: for those who like little crimps and want something different than the sometimes frustrating, sometimes fun, jump start, try this 'static' start. Uses obvious R crimp and small L crimp in the seam. Perch on the L foot (where most paste the right for the jump start) and dead hang pasting the right foot high on the far face (sometimes you'll nab a toe hook). Crank. This option might open the line up to those who are vertically challenged but can crimp down.
My good friend Jay and I, hitchhiked over from Greeley to Horse Tooth Res several times in 1979. One day we were wrapping up when we glanced over to see some guy in a waiter’s uniform walk to the base of the Eliminator Right Side, set down a bottle of wine and, to our surprise, tick the Right Side Eliminator! I could pull the ERS, but I used the "cheater blocks". This guy did it without the blocks. We went straight over and introduced ourselves to Mark Wilford! We never got to know Mark well, but we spent the rest of the afternoon bouldering with him. We hitchhiked home in the dark, amazed we made it home safely!
By Ryan-Nelson From: Fort Collins, CO Apr 9, 2014 rating: V36A
The proper way to climb Right Eliminator. (Arete Off)