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Point Mugu

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Mugu Rock 
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Point Mugu Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.0861, -119.0589 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,412
Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Route Topo, Mugu Rock A: Arete (5.9+) B: Crack (5...

Description 

For decades, Point Mugu has been THE spot for area climbers to learn basic crack climbing technique. The little boulder by the highway is simply famous among Ventura- and some LA-County climbers...and as Steve Edwards said in the Santa Barbara/Ventura guidebook, “If you don’t confuse famous with good, you may not be disappointed.” Popular with travelers along PCH as well as with the locals, you can expect to share the site with other climbers.

Extraordinary sunsets and beautiful marine life add to the appeal. Curious tourists armed with cameras and abundant road noise are all part of the experience.

Getting There 

From the North: Located on PCH (Hwy-1), just a few miles south of Point Mugu Naval Air Station (2.5 miles south of Las Posas Rd.), at the point where the Highway breaks out along the ocean.

From the South: Located 6 miles north of the LA/Ventura county line (marked conspicuously by the locally-famous Neptunes Net), just before the highway cuts inland away from the ocean.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Point Mugu
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh climbs through the start of the 5.11, at Mugu...

G: Crack/Face 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : Central Coast : ... : Mugu Rock
Tricky & sequential. Perhaps the best route on the wall. Drop your knee, lock off and REACH....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Point Mugu Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dog Anchor
Dog Anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Nesbitt climbs the little boulder by the high...
Mike Nesbitt climbs the little boulder by the high...
Rock Climbing Photo: November is a special month at Point Mugu, as near...
November is a special month at Point Mugu, as near...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fritz off the Mugu boulder.
Fritz off the Mugu boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: A seagull on top of the Mugu boulder.
A seagull on top of the Mugu boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mugu Rock  self portrait by Matthew Fienup
Mugu Rock self portrait by Matthew Fienup
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing Mugu Rock, Mugu...
BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing Mugu Rock, Mugu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fritz bearing down on the Mugu boulder.
Fritz bearing down on the Mugu boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: working up the slabby mugu spire
working up the slabby mugu spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing the large parki...
BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing the large parki...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tucker on the Mugu boulder.
Tucker on the Mugu boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred going au naturale on the Mugu boulder.
Fred going au naturale on the Mugu boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mugu Rock, on Pacific Coast Highway
Mugu Rock, on Pacific Coast Highway
Rock Climbing Photo: Sea approaching the OW on Mugu boulder
Sea approaching the OW on Mugu boulder

Comments on Point Mugu Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard Rawson
Jun 27, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
There is even LAYERS UPON LAYERS of paint inside of the cracks. tried a few lines but would rather climb another day then to lose footing and have my fingers separate from my palms.
By ryan mattock
Jun 24, 2009
I live in Los Angeles and every few weekends I take the time to climb this rock. Many cracks with a vertical hint! I especially love this place when you can get to spot a whale!!!
peace to all whom read!
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 5, 2009
Mugu is esoteric beyond belief. I have logged dozens and dozens of days at this site and something keeps me coming back for more.

The Mugu experience is one of a kind.
By Dave Vaughn
From: Simi Valley CA
Dec 29, 2010
Although this is a top rope / bouldering area, I use it for anchor practice and clean aid practice often. There is lots of latex paint on the wall to cover the tagging that has happened over the years. Parking is plentiful. Do not turn left into the parking area from the South and do not turn North out of the parking area, there is a double yellow there and CHP loves to sit and wait. Enter from the north only.
By PrrdyLady
Mar 18, 2012
Painfully disappointed. The lines seemed fun but the amount of paint layered all over the face of the wall, was a huge deterrent. The location is stunning. Dolphin spotting was worth the drive, but the rock was in tagging recovery with all that paint. Foot placement was sketchy.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 20, 2012
And you forgot to mention the constant highway noise...


Esoteric, for sure : )
By Hugo Watt
From: Southern California
Jan 27, 2014
There is also a route between E and G up the broken face. I would call it 5.10+ and is a crimpy alternatives to the jamming found on other routes.

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