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Routes in Mugu Rock

A: Arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
B: Crack TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
C: Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Crimps V5 6C
D: Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dash V0+ 4+ PG13
E: Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
F: Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
G b V1 5 PG13
G: Crack/Face TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
H: Crack TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Traverse T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Home to several short, high quality, moderate crack climbs on slightly overhanging rock. The boulder is periodically painted with a semi-gloss paint which masks the graffiti and makes the rock unusually slick for hands and feet.

Several Glue-In eyebolts adorn the top of the boulder. A few small cams and medium stoppers offer additional anchor possibilities. Scramble up and descend the climberÂ’s-right side of the boulder (class-3)

  • *Contributor's Note: all of the route grades are given using the YDS, simply because this is the convention that has been used by guidebook authors for over 20 years (Hellweg & Warstler, Craig Fry, Steve Edwards, etc.). Most of the routes fall into the VB or V0- category.

Getting There

Located in the parking turnout, on the ocean-side of the highway. You can't miss it!

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mugu Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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This is a nice roadside diversion boulder with about a dozen cracks to choose from from 5.8 to 5.11. There are several bolts on top for anchors and an easy descent. The only downside to this boulder is the slick paint it is covered in that makes the jams and footholds somewhat insecure.

This boulder is right off the PCH (Hwy 1), and is easily visible as you drive by. From the north it is shortly after you pass Point Mugu NAS on the ocean (right) side of the road. Nov 29, 2009

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