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Point Mugu

California > Central Coast

Description

For decades, Point Mugu has been THE spot for area climbers to learn basic crack climbing technique. The little boulder by the highway is simply famous among Ventura- and some LA-County climbers...and as Steve Edwards said in the Santa Barbara/Ventura guidebook, “If you don’t confuse famous with good, you may not be disappointed.” Popular with travelers along PCH as well as with the locals, you can expect to share the site with other climbers.

Extraordinary sunsets and beautiful marine life add to the appeal. Curious tourists armed with cameras and abundant road noise are all part of the experience.

Getting There

From the North: Located on PCH (Hwy-1), just a few miles south of Point Mugu Naval Air Station (2.5 miles south of Las Posas Rd.), at the point where the Highway breaks out along the ocean.

From the South: Located 6 miles north of the LA/Ventura county line (marked conspicuously by the locally-famous Neptunes Net), just before the highway cuts inland away from the ocean.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dog Anchor
[Hide Photo] Dog Anchor
Route Topo, Mugu Rock<br>
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A: Arete (5.9+)<br>
B: Crack (5.9)<br>
C: Crack (5.10)<br>
D: Crack (5.10-)<br>
E: Crack (5.10-)<br>
F: Crack (5.10)<br>
G: Crack/Face (5.11-)<br>
H: Crack (5.8)<br>
I: Face (5.11)<br>
J: Face (5.11)<br>
[Hide Photo] Route Topo, Mugu Rock A: Arete (5.9+) B: Crack (5.9) C: Crack (5.10) D: Crack (5.10-) E: Crack (5.10-) F: Crack (5.10) G: Crack/Face (5.11-) H: Crack (5.8) I: Face (5.11) J: Face (5.11)
Mugu Rock<br>
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self portrait by Matthew Fienup
[Hide Photo] Mugu Rock self portrait by Matthew Fienup
November is a special month at Point Mugu, as nearly every sunset is spectacular.  This one was photographed sitting atop Mugu Rock.  Both Anacapa and Santa Cruz Islands are visible.<br>
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Due to its unique position and orientation, I have shot more amazing sunset shots here than at any other spot on the Central Coast.  To see more Point Mugu sunsets, click [[here]]http://mountainproject.com/v/matthew_fienup/106509058
[Hide Photo] November is a special month at Point Mugu, as nearly every sunset is spectacular. This one was photographed sitting atop Mugu Rock. Both Anacapa and Santa Cruz Islands are visible. Due to its…
Mugu Rock, on Pacific Coast Highway
[Hide Photo] Mugu Rock, on Pacific Coast Highway
Mike Nesbitt climbs the little boulder by the highway, Mugu Rock<br>
www.EarthworksImagery.com
[Hide Photo] Mike Nesbitt climbs the little boulder by the highway, Mugu Rock www.EarthworksImagery.com
Fritz off the Mugu boulder.
[Hide Photo] Fritz off the Mugu boulder.
Sea approaching the OW on Mugu boulder
[Hide Photo] Sea approaching the OW on Mugu boulder
working up the slabby mugu spire
[Hide Photo] working up the slabby mugu spire
Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing Mugu Rock, Mugu Spire and Mugu Slab.
[Hide Photo] Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing Mugu Rock, Mugu Spire and Mugu Slab.
Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing the large parking turnout and Mugu Rock.
[Hide Photo] Aerial view of Point Mugu, showing the large parking turnout and Mugu Rock.
Tucker on the Mugu boulder.
[Hide Photo] Tucker on the Mugu boulder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
[Hide Comment] I live in Los Angeles and every few weekends I take the time to climb this rock. Many cracks with a vertical hint! I especially love this place when you can get to spot a whale!!!
peace to all whom read! Jun 24, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] Mugu is esoteric beyond belief. I have logged dozens and dozens of days at this site and something keeps me coming back for more.

The Mugu experience is one of a kind. Aug 5, 2009
Dave Vaughn
Simi Valley CA
[Hide Comment] Although this is a top rope / bouldering area, I use it for anchor practice and clean aid practice often. There is lots of latex paint on the wall to cover the tagging that has happened over the years. Parking is plentiful. Do not turn left into the parking area from the South and do not turn North out of the parking area, there is a double yellow there and CHP loves to sit and wait. Enter from the north only. Dec 29, 2010
J T
[Hide Comment] Painfully disappointed. The lines seemed fun but the amount of paint layered all over the face of the wall, was a huge deterrent. The location is stunning. Dolphin spotting was worth the drive, but the rock was in tagging recovery with all that paint. Foot placement was sketchy. Mar 18, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
[Hide Comment] And you forgot to mention the constant highway noise...


Esoteric, for sure : ) Mar 20, 2012
Hugo Watt
Southern California
[Hide Comment] There is also a route between E and G up the broken face. I would call it 5.10+ and is a crimpy alternatives to the jamming found on other routes. Jan 27, 2014
Jeremy Elberst
Camarillo, CA
[Hide Comment] Slick as snot from all the paint but worth a stop regardless. Mar 11, 2020
Xi Yin
Cambridge, MA/traveling
[Hide Comment] Stopped by this place on my way to Santa Barbara. I wasn't so bothered by the paint but the trash and broken glass on the ground was a real turnoff, yikes. Gladly went to the local gym instead. Jan 16, 2023
Bryan Longwey
Colorado springs
[Hide Comment] Best crack climbing in SoCal, prove me wrong Sep 12, 2023