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Point Dume

Routes Sorted
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Arete TR 
Center TR 
Easy Boulder 
Left TR 
Left Center TR 
Left Flake TR 
Right Center TR 
South Face Left TR 
South Face Right S 

Point Dume 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10'
Location: 34.015, -118.8205 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,887
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 17, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Climb at your own risk

Description 

OVERVIEW
Excellent top rope protected climbing for beginners and intermediates in a truly stunning setting. Everyone's first day of climbing should be at a place like this.

The site boasts 2 different faces:
WEST-FACING WALL--5 low-angle climbs up sharp edges in the 5.6-5.9 range--in truth, there are an infinite number of variations to these 5 routes. This wall is perfect for developing footwork and crimp strength. All lead bolts on the west-facing wall are sketchy. Do not learn to lead at Point Dume!
SOUTH-FACING (seaside) WALL--2 steep, pumpy routes in the 5.10 range, with other variations possible.

Long anchor-cords are required to top rope most routes.

WEATHER/CLIMATE
Moderated by the presence of temperate ocean water, this site is a year-round cliff. On cool winter days, the rock can feel slick.

For a memorable day of whale-watching, be sure to climb at Point Dume from mid-December to March.


Getting There 

From PCH, turn on Westward Beach Road and head East for approximately 1 mile. Pass through the State Park gate (pay the toll) and proceed to the far side of the parking area, closest to the wall. Access top rope anchors by climbing a circuitous path that begins to the north of the main wall.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Point Dume:
Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     TR, 95'   
Left Flake   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Center   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 90'   
South Face Right   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   
South Face Left   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Point Dume

Featured Route For Point Dume
Sara works her way up a face route at Point Dume.

Right Center 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Los Angeles Basin : Point Dume
Classic Point Dume edge-pulling at an accessible grade. Be creative, the easiest line meanders quite a bit....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Point Dume Slideshow Add Photo
the reward after a long hard day
the reward after a long hard day
Point Dume Routes <br />Photo by Tozan aka Charles More
BETA PHOTO: Point Dume Routes
Photo by Tozan aka Charles More
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
The approach, living in So-Cal is rough
The approach, living in So-Cal is rough
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
Fun bouldering at the bottom of the arete
BETA PHOTO: Fun bouldering at the bottom of the arete
Ian Nichels climbing the south wall.
Ian Nichels climbing the south wall.
Lead bolts do not fall on these...
BETA PHOTO: Lead bolts do not fall on these...
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10. The sun just peeking over the rock.
From 9-26-10. The sun just peeking over the rock.
The South Face.
The South Face.
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
Go there on a weekday and you might just have the place to yourself... Jerry and I did!  heh heh
Go there on a weekday and you might just have the ...
TOPOUT!!!
TOPOUT!!!
The trail to the top of the wall, at Point Dume, travels through delicate cliff-side habitat.  This area enjoys the State Park's highest level of protection.  Please stay on the trail and observe all posted signs.
The trail to the top of the wall, at Point Dume, t...
South face Tilt Shift. A couple of Dirt Barbies at play.
South face Tilt Shift. A couple of Dirt Barbies at...
One more shot of a lead bolt at Point Dume: as visible in this photo, most of the mass of the buttonhead has been eliminated by corrosion.  There is very little material actually holding the hanger to the wall.
One more shot of a lead bolt at Point Dume: as vis...
Typical sight at Point Dume...
Typical sight at Point Dume...
View from the top! South face right 5.10a Brayden Meza lookin up.
View from the top! South face right 5.10a Brayden ...
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
Desrie climbing the Center of the West Face.
Desrie climbing the Center of the West Face.
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
South Face looking north on a nice uncrowded day.
South Face looking north on a nice uncrowded day.
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
There are a couple boulders in the area that you can climb, though the routes are pretty short and easy.
There are a couple boulders in the area that you c...
From 9-26-10
From 9-26-10
TR solo on a nice relaxing day away from the cold.
TR solo on a nice relaxing day away from the cold.
Comments on Point Dume Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 18, 2014
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 17, 2006

I have recently overheard beginning lead climbers talk about going to Pt. Dume to practice lead climbing. Beginners and experts alike should be advised that the lead bolts on the main face are almost exclusively compression bolts. Compression bolts are considered sketchy (by the American Safe Climbing Association and others) when placed in Yosemite granite. Rusted compression bolts in a sea-side cliff are a death-wish.

Similar bolts have been pulled from nearby climbing sites with only slight pressure.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 15, 2006

As far as climbing at Point Dume,

4 out of 5 stars for scenic value.
1 out of 5 stars for route quality.
0 out of 5 stars if you plan on leading anything.

By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 23, 2007

If you are looking for a secluded day of climbing, don't go here. Having said that, it is worth a day of climbing if only to experience the view of the beach and the ocean spray hitting your face. The rock is very slippery early in the morning and on overcast days due to the coastal environment.

By Tozankyaku
Nov 11, 2008

Why don't we get together and rebolt these routes. I will donate my time and some of the money for this operation... Who else is interested in doing this?

By Matthew Geyer
Nov 13, 2008

Heads up Point Dume climbers, my buddy in Pasadena just got some fresh metal thanks to Greg at ASCA and we plan to replace the lead bolts this weekend. We’ll post pictures.

Update: Unfortunately the potluck approach to bringing the necessary gear didn’t quite work out, the individual responsible for bring the grinder was unable to show and as a result we could not remove the rusty bolts. The plan to replace said lead bolts will have to be re-scheduled. Point Dume area climbers will be kept in the loop.

By Tozankyaku
Nov 14, 2008

That is Great news...

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2009

Wow! A Point Dume fix-up is a dream come true. The only thing that could make this place better would be if Gigit came by and asked for a belay.

By ryan mattock
Feb 15, 2009

rebolting Dume will take some real hard work. it might help to consult the F.A party to help you get the real bolts replaced.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 17, 2009

I had a great time running up these routes. But it would have been a lot more fun had I been leading. I ran up to the first bolt on the 5.7, looked at it long and hard, and backed down. I'd love to see this wall rebolted but I can understand if it doesn't happen - probably wouldn't be long 'til they were badly rusted again. :0(

There's a nice new bolted anchor on the lower ledge that does not require long slings for top-roping.

By cassondra
From: las vegas, NV
Jul 4, 2009

the drive on a holiday from downtown L.A. is particularly hateful. It took me three hours going on the 10 west and pch North. Maybe Kanan Dume Rd from 101 is better?

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 14, 2009

It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.

The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.

In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs.

By Sam E
From: Malibu, Ca
Aug 17, 2009

Someone has been chopping bolts and anchors in the last couple of days.
Not really sure why anyone would want to smash and chop the eyebolt anchors at the top of two routes. I climbed up the left most route only to find that the once bomber three point anchor is now down to one eyebolt.

Matthew - care to elaborate about the E.C.'s desire to ban climbing here?

By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Sep 1, 2009

I was thinking about heading to the rock, anyone have an update on whether or not the bolts have been chopped? Thanks

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Oct 10, 2009

Went climbing here today and was pretty shocked at the stupid behavior. People need to cut out the crap like hand over handing their top rope to get to the top to clean or climbing down to the pre-summit unprotected before tying in to rap. Both times I've been here I've seen stupid stuff by barely mediocre climbers trying to impress the newbies they are taking for rides. It's an accident waiting to happen or at least a really bad precedent to set for beginners. It's also pretty bad to see people hang-dogging the worthless bolts. Treat the lead routes as solos, and if you can't climb that grade at full confidence... don't. I don't want to see someone get hurt or this place shut down. Sorry to rant, but anyone going to Point Dume, remember it's a crag, not a beach party.

By Joe Park
Feb 28, 2011

Someone (very presumptuously) chopped all the lower bolts on the easy side recently. I once thought climbers were very reasonable and level-headed.

By Joe Park
Feb 28, 2011

If you don't want to shell out $10 for parking, park where all the surfers do, on Grasswood, a bit north of Dume, and walk down. I actually like to take the bus from LA, line 545(?) which drops you off right near the top of the point, or sometimes, at PCH/Heathercliff.

By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Jun 17, 2011

Saw two almost-deaths on Tuesday at this crag. Some of the most stupid behavior I've ever seen in the vertical sports.

Also, we climbed one day, two days later we went back to do it again, and one of the anchor bolts we'd used two days prior was completely gone. I wouldn't trust any of this protection with my life, se sure to sling a rock or two on the top and set up your TR in a responsible way. My prediction is this crag gets shut down to climbing within a few years because of stupid antics.

By Rob M
From: Fullerton, ca
Jun 20, 2011

I was there today. I saw one chopped anchor but it was an old one I think. At least one lower one one was hammered down. It needed to be. DO NOT lead on these unless you have a death wish. There is a rock you can sling on the right. This is a great place for scenery and to take inexperienced climbers, but limited obviously in numbers of routes and higher grade stuff. Head to Echo or Malibu Creek for that-not far from there. Take very long slings if you decide to go to Dume..

By Sam E
From: Malibu, Ca
Oct 24, 2011

All lead bolts on the Pt. are rusted out and not to be used, by anyone.
ever. There are good anchor bolts on the summit for setting up top ropes. Sling the boulders for backup. Stay on the main trail when hiking up AND down from the top. That's the main trail. not the drainage. not the obvious use trails all over. environmental impact is the easiest way "they" could restrict access.

Point Dume is dangerous. Loose rock abounds.
I see climbers making so many mistakes, some days I just turn around and go home. The arete is not a good beginner's route. although easy for the grade, it has lots of friction moves and bad pendulum risk.
The lower half of the oceanside routes are death blocks waiting to fly. Be Aware.

With that said, Pt. Dume can be a great place to spend the day climbing. harder variations can be had on the ocean side along with some R/X rated bouldering for the hardman looking for a fix. Be cool, use your head, and minimize your presence whenever possible.

By Luis Orozco
From: Covina, CA
May 10, 2012

new bolts on the middle route beach side with rap ring

By Jack Scully
From: Los Angeles CA
May 21, 2012

Pros:
1. Great scenery
2. If you get hot, jump in the Pacific
3. The rock is rough, but it's rock, and its in LA county...beggars can't be choosers.

Cons:
1. No disrespect to the Malibu climbers, but the crowd that was there that day was really unsafe. Maybe it's a west coast thing, but east coast climbers i.e. New and Red climbers - are very cautious climbers. I witnessed a lot of sketchy TR setups like 2 single Rap lines sharing one bolt - I know they're 3/8ths but I am of the mindset that you ALWAYS have a back up, no matter what.

2. Not that many climbs, it does get crowded, and people get protective of their climbs. People will post up on one climb and stay there.

3. Not a great place to sport, as I mentioned previously, some of the bolts are sketch. Some rusted, some loose, and some hammered flat. Just TR.

4. I saw some some solo climbing. Its one thing to watch Alex Honnold do it but guess what? You're not Alex Honnold...neither is your stupid friend. DON'T DO IT. It's unsafe and it is not smart.

Off topic but relevant - Point Dume hands down reminded me of why I moved to California. My girlfriend/climbing partner and I got there around 1pm. Crowded, but we expected that and being new to the area didn't see it as a bad thing. There we're two sport routes open on the ocean side so I went for the center most route. The climb was fun but I will admit I bailed before going to the last bolt because the one I was at looked a bit sketch - rusted and loose - BE ADVISED. Definitely not a climbing weenus here, just not an unnecessary risk taker. Came down, hiked around to the top and as I went to Rap down, two humpback whales came swimming up the coast line less than 20 feet offshore. SINGLE MOST AMAZING THING I HAVE EVER SEEN - RAPPELLING DOWN WHILE WATCHING TWO WHALES SWIM SIDE BY SIDE UP THE MALIBU COAST. WOW.

By Andres T
Nov 24, 2012

watch out for repellers. Came from AZ to visit friends and was shown this area. Started to lead and was told not to, but got my beginner girlfriend on the wall and guys would just come running down on top of her. Not the climbing etiquette i expected. But fun rock, fun easy approach and sketchy bolts yes, just don't fall. Just be ready to argue for an anchor against people that are just repelling at the top.

By Rock Klimber
From: SoCal
Aug 11, 2013

As has been mentioned in previous posts, there is a problem at Point Dume with people repelling recklessly and endangering other climbers around them. It goes beyond climbing etiquette. And apparently the problem goes beyond just rappeling too. Yesterday I experienced this first hand.

There was a guy there, who I'm told is a regular, who was doing very high speed face-down rappels (military-style "Australian rappel"). At times he would essentially free-fall the entire height of the rock, only braking in the last few feet. Cool to watch. Problem was, he was doing this in very close proximity to other climbers. The established routes at Pt Dume are already densely spaced, and this guy was setting up his rappels in between the established routes, dangerously encroaching on the routes and climbers already on them.

Late in the day he did this to us. I was about half way up a route, and this guy set up right on top of me, about 3 feet to the left. And down he came on a high-speed Ozzie rappel, whizzing past me within arm's length at a speed of about 50 ft per second. And at the bottom he braked just a few feet above my belayer's head, and again, within arm's reach of her to the left. Had he misjudged his free-fall by just a couple of feet, at least two of us would be going to the hospital. Very dangerous for all of us!

My belayer (a 5'2" female) asked him politely not to do that so close to us while we have a climber on the route. And the guy went ballistic! He started yelling at her, cursing at her, harassing and threatening her, going off on her on and on, all this while I'm still up on the route with her belaying me.

When I got down, the situation only worsened. The guy become physically belligerent, got in my face, literally nose-to-nose, threatening that he's going to "kick my ass", "f*** me up", etc. Not wanting to get into a violent altercation with this whack job, I went over to the life guard tower and had them call over the Sheriffs. They came and had a talk with him, but they ultimately did not arrest him. He denied threatening us, and so it was his word against ours. Thankfully, he did pack up and leave at that point.

This guy apparently is often there, doing his thing. Seeing him earlier in the day, it was clear that he likes an audience, and he was also eager to take people up and have them do Ozzie rappels (newbie climbers or even just random beach-goers -- sounds like a recipe for disaster in itself). And the guy was constantly talking about his military background and how much he despises the "f***ing civilians". That we're all soft because we "haven't been baptized by fire"... etc. etc. And when he didn't have a human audience paying attention to him, he would feed and talk to the squirrels... And of course all this was before he got physically belligerent with us.

So, beware. This guy is unstable and dangerous. Best to keep your distance from him as best you can, on and off the rock. He looks like he's in his 40's or 50's, gray hair, fit, and speaks with some kind of eastern European accent.

By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Aug 17, 2013

Yep, that's the Polish guy. Had a similar experience with him a few years ago, though he wasn't being physical.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Feb 3, 2014

Destroying a Geological Resource
Destroying a Geological Resource

For those interested in the recent history of this site, a bolt replacement effort was undertaken in 2009 with generous support from the American Safe Climbing Association. The effort was interrupted (with lights flashing and sirens blaring) when two volunteers were detained by State Park law enforcement and cited for "Destroying a Geological Resource." The situation became very serious when the State Park's District Environmental Coordinator expressed the desire to close the area to climbing. A representative from the ASCA and two from the Access Fund consulted on the effort to keep the site open after the blow-up. One local climber in particular, named David, put in many hours to smooth things over with the Park. The officer who wrote the original citation also turned out to be a good advocate for climbers. The Park Service is watching the climbing community closely and has even visited this website to check on us. Please tread carefully at Point Dume and be good stewards--and know that it is against the law to remove, replace or add bolts.

By Jason J
Apr 21, 2014

If someone accidentally took home a pair of Five Ten Moccasyms, size 4 (if my friend remembers correctly), from this area on 4/20/14 please contact me.

Climbed here on 4/20/14 and noticed all the bolts for routes on the ocean side have been pulled. We made due by slinging the boulder and more distant bolts.

By JeffMK
May 18, 2014

Climbed back at the Point for the first time in a long time. Here's a quick status update:

1. Greg, the Polish guy who raps all day long and talks even longer, is still there...

2. All oceanside bolts missing. Oceanside routes, at least the left and center ones, are using the "boulder" on the top, but this thing measures maybe 3x3x2 at best. One party slung the boulder twice as their only piece of pro.

3. Arete anchor is in good shape. Some of the lead bolts have new bolts placed about a foot away from the old ones. The rest are still spinning and rusted buttonheads.

4. Middle-face anchor also looked good.

5. Still a gorgeous place to climb but it seems to be fading away unless the anchors are allowed to be rebolted at the very least.