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Point Dume Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Point Dume

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Backside Roof TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Easy Boulder V-easy 3
	Left TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Left Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Left Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Left Flake TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	North Face Traverse V1 5
	Ocean's Eleven TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Rhein-Dance TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Right Center TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	South Face Center Right TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	South Face Left TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	South Face Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	8 ft	2 m
GPS:	34.00154, -118.80853 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Matthew Fienup on Aug 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT!!Please stay on main trail when setting top ropes, do not use side gullies. Details

Please remain on the main trail when going to set and remove your top rope. Local climbers and Access Fund working with CA State Parks to restore the gullies and preserve climbing access. Note on Bolts: Top rope bolts are permitted, no lead bolts are allowed on the face of the rock.

Description

OVERVIEW

Excellent top rope protected climbing for beginners and intermediates in a truly stunning setting. Everyone's first day of climbing should be at a place like this.

The site boasts 2 different faces:

WEST-FACING WALL--5 low-angle climbs up sharp edges in the 5.6-5.9 range--in truth, there are an infinite number of variations to these 5 routes. This wall is perfect for developing footwork and crimp strength. All lead bolts on the west-facing wall are sketchy. Do not learn to lead at Point Dume!

SOUTH-FACING (seaside) WALL--2 steep, pumpy routes in the 5.10 range, with other variations possible.

Long anchor-cords are required to top rope most routes.

Getting There

From PCH, turn on Westward Beach Road and head East for approximately 1 mile. Pass through the State Park gate (pay the toll) and proceed to the far side of the parking area, closest to the wall. Access top rope anchors by climbing a circuitous path that begins to the north of the main wall.

Please note, there are two parking entrances that require a parking fee and can confuse you. You need to turn into the lot that takes you south, down along the coast for a minute, and then you'll end up right near the wall.

Weather/Climate

Moderated by the presence of temperate ocean water, this site is a year-round cliff. On cool winter days, the rock can feel slick.

For a memorable day of whale-watching, be sure to climb at Point Dume from mid-December to March.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Point Dume

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 128 ● Arete TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 82 ● Right Center TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 7 ● Left Arete TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 22 ● Left Flake TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 9 ● Rhein-Dance TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 83 ● Left TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 106 ● Left Center TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 138 ● Center TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 129 ● South Face Left TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 115 ● South Face Right Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 16 ● South Face Center Right TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Ocean's Eleven TR