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 ADVANCED
Planet of the Apes Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Boy TR 
Christmas Pump TR 
Grape Ape TR 
Guerilla Warfare TR 
J.P.  S 
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do TR 
Planet of the Apes TR 
Shock the Monkey TR 
Spank the Monkey TR 
Spider Monkey TR 

Planet of the Apes Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 900'
Location: 34.09765, -118.72905 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,513
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Popular with climbers of all abilities and good top roping. Faces south and is best in cooler temps.

Getting There 

At the parking lot, continue towards the visitor center, cross a creek and turn left (south). Formation on the right. Approach 15-25 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Planet of the Apes Wall:
Shock the Monkey   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Planet of the Apes   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 70'   
Birthday Boy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 70'   
Spider Monkey   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch   
Monkey Sang, Monkey Do   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 70'   
Spank the Monkey   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     TR, 70'   
Guerilla Warfare   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Planet of the Apes Wall

Featured Route For Planet of the Apes Wall
monkey sang,monkey do

Monkey Sang, Monkey Do 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Planet of the Apes Wall
A terrific route. Same start as "Spank the Monkey", but trend right and continue up and over a small overlap before joining at the beginning of the final roof section. Catch a good rest mid height. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Planet of the Apes Wall Slideshow Add Photo
The scene usually looks something like this.  You can't see the 15 or so people in the shade under the tree to the left, and the two other top ropes they have up there.
BETA PHOTO: The scene usually looks something like this. You ...
Poor initial quality image, that i opted to overphotoshop for effect.
Poor initial quality image, that i opted to overph...
The Planet of the Apes Wall, with a local school group rappelling from the summit.
The Planet of the Apes Wall, with a local school g...
Fairly large for what seems to be just a enormous boulder
Fairly large for what seems to be just a enormous ...
Mikie aping it up
Mikie aping it up
air time, planet of the apes
air time, planet of the apes

Comments on Planet of the Apes Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 15, 2006
Popular - definitely.

Even though Planet of the Apes is a "toprope only" crag, I would NOT recommend it as a good choice for beginners. The easiest route is 5.9, and everything else is 5.10+ and above.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Feb 19, 2007
I thought that Grape Ape (the 5.9), and a few other routes on this wall were sandbaged. A few other people climbing at the crag agreed with me. the 5.9 had super deep solid pockets almost all the way up and when the hand holds were not huge the feet were solid. There were a few beginners when I was there, and since it was TR only you have no problem putting caution to the wind and getting a good work out.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 26, 2009
So why is this a top rope only area? Seems a waste of the most easily accessed cliff in the Santa Monica Mountains. Or to put it another way, these routes could be better than Echo because the rock hurt the hands less.

By Rob M
From: Fullerton, ca
Jul 15, 2011
Beginners will pump out immediately and then get frustrated. Take them to Point Dume. Therenis some stuff on stumbling blocks that would be better for them, but then they have to make the creek traverse without falling in....