Panic Pillar
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.84761, -119.40551 |
| FA: | Glen Dawson and Jack Riegelhuth, 1934 (TR); Tom Higgins and Bud Couch (first lead) |
| Page Views: | 8,013 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | vincent L. on Jun 23, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Panic Pillar is the closest pillar to the summit of Cathedral. The route described here is on the west face of the pillar. Start by climbing a steep handcrack until you gain a small stance on the pillar itself. Clip a mangled rusty piton , you can also fiddle a small cam or nut in to backup the pin. This is the last pro on the route.
Make some exposed face moves to gain another small ledge . From here you are fully committed on the pillar. You must make two distinct 5.9 moves on mostly positive knobs to reach the summit jugs on top.
There is (1) old quarter inch bolt on top with a newer looking quick link through it. You can bring up a second from the top. To descend, run the rope through the quick link , and then run the rope around a solid horn on top. You can safely rap from the bolt and horn.
Panic Pillar is an excellent adventure after a Cathedral summit or on your way to Eichorn. It is a pretty serious lead, and the fall potential near the top should not be underestimated.



2 Comments