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single pitch Red Rocks suggestions for winter
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By Deniz
From Boise
Dec 18, 2009
Hi all,
I will spend sometime at Red Rocks at the end of december. I got some suggestions for multipitch climbs that are in the sun. However, I am also looking for suggestions for single pitch climbs, trad and sport, for cold days and to mix things up. There is so much stuff at Red Rocks it might be nice to know what kind of classics there are to start with. I have been there before but only for few days so I am almost a first timer...
So what climbs stand out; 5.7-5.9 (maybe easy 5.10) trad, and 5.10-5.11 (maybe 5.12a) sport.
Any suggestions for nice cracks?
Thanks a bunch

FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Dec 18, 2009
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.
Off the top of my head: single, and two pitch trad routes that are a lot of fun. All great cracks, except Great Red Book, Kemosabe, Sidewinder, and Sensuous Mortician will give you some face.

In Calico Basin

  • Classic Corner 5.8
  • Physical Graffitti ; only 5.6 but fun- (2 pitches)
  • Valentine's Day 5.8+
  • The Fox 5.10+ (but you can walk to the top, and build an anchor to TR it)

Second Pull-Out
  • Great Red Book 5.8 (2 pitches)

White Rock Springs

  • The Ledger 5.7 (3 pitches, but you can link 1&2)
  • Intestinal Flu 5.8 my ass! (2 pitches) Stout, and amazing.

In Willow Springs

  • Ragged Edges - classic 5.8 (2 pitches)
  • Kemosabe 5.10a
  • Nadia's Nine - awesome, and stout 5.9, but more like a 5.10. : )
(2 pitches)
  • Black Track 5.9+

Ice Box Canyon on Necromancer Wall

  • Hop Route 5.7 (3 pitches, but most just do the first pitch)
  • Sensuous Mortician 5.9
  • Fold Out 5.8

Sunnyside Crags in Ice Box Canyon

  • Cold September Corner 5.8
A must do! I loved it so much I led it three times!
  • Mister Masters 5.9+

Brass Wall in Pine Creek, and Flight Path area

  • Straight Shooter 5.9+ classic crack, and you can TR Sidewinder; a 5.11 trad route from SS's anchor.
  • Topless Twins (2 pitches) 5.9
  • Varnishing Point (2 pitches) 5.8+
  • Commuted Sentence 5.9+
  • Doin' The Good Drive 5.9

First Creek Canyon

  • Pinball Crack 5.9+
  • Quite a few fun, easy trad to be had on the Romper Room Wall

Black Velvet Canyon

  • The Misunderstanding 5.9 (2 pitches)

Illusion Crags

  • Arm Forces 5.9
and other fun routes in the 5.7-5.9 range

FLAG
By Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Dec 19, 2009
GiGi,
Are you balancing a route guide on the top of your head? I've done The route Varnishing point but missed out on doing the Topless Twins. Could they be done two different ways? Anyhow, the rock out there is totally cool. It looks pink, but shot up with purple paint balls.

FLAG
By Deniz
From Boise
Dec 19, 2009
Great! thanks. Any suggestions on the sport front??

FLAG
By Greg Barnes
Dec 19, 2009
Hanging out with Karin on the summit of Warlock Needle. Photo by Josh Janes.
Just FYI - half or more of the stuff on GiGi's list is in the shade at the end of December.

FLAG
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From Vegas
Dec 19, 2009
Growing a winter coat in Red Rock Canyon- December 2013.
But they're short routes, Greg! We've climbed Ledger while it was snowing; you'll warm up, especially on some of the more stout, single, and shorter multi-pitches.

Deniz, just pay attention to the forecast about two days before you arrive; if it's cloudy, the sunny or shady routes won't matter much, and if it's warm, and sunny then screw the single pitches, and short stuff, and hit up the long, multipitches that Red Rock is famous for! : )

Have fun!

FLAG
By Deniz
From Boise
Dec 19, 2009
exactly my plan :)) Thanks a lot for the info!

FLAG
By Bryan G
From San Jose
Dec 20, 2009
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders
Deniz wrote:
Great! thanks. Any suggestions on the sport front??

Running Man and Stratocaster are my favorites. Both are in the sun all day and are relatively close together on the same shelf system. There's lots of other stuff to do in the area as well.

The other crag to check out is Sunny and Steep. Cirque de Soleil and Mr Choad's Wild Ride are both great. And you can hit up Conundrum Crag and Cop Crag on the way there.

Don't be afraid to hop on some hard shit too. The sport climbing in Red Rock has some of the softest grades around. A lot of 5.11+'s like Running Man would be rated 5.10c if they were at Mt Lemmon or Joshua Tree.

edited to add: Unimpeachable Groping is a great multipitch sport climb that gets sun most of the day and has a nice summit. If you want to push into some 5.10 multipitch without worrying about placing gear, it's a good one to get on.

FLAG
 
By Brandontru
From Nevada
Dec 27, 2009
Karate crack 5.9 In Willow

In the sun and a lot of fun

FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
Dec 27, 2009
Bucky
'Keep Your Powder Dry' is a fricking amazing 5.12- sport route.

I think it is by far the best 12- I have done in RR and it has fixed hardware so if you can lower at anytime.

I would second Bryan's suggestion for getting on Mr. Toad's Wild Ride, great 11b. There are some other nice routes at Sunny and Steep and it is in the sun, so it is a great place to go in winter.

FLAG


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