Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Mike Ward 1987
Page Views: 15,661 total · 76/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


One of my favorite single-pitch climbs in the country, it is of a piece with other masculine enduro-classics such as Quarter of a Man and Mister Clean. Features slightly overhanging Red Rocks crimping. Starts with a cruxy move by the first bolt (harder if short), followed by a long stretch of 5.10 climbing with no real rests and ends with a semi-cruxy move just below the anchors.

The start of the climb is easy to find with the Swain guide. This climb is in the sun almost the entire day.


This pitch has about 10 bolts, which some of us consider insufficient for a climb of this length, difficulty and continuousness. The bolts can be easily supplemented with a few nuts in the #1-4 Rock range and a couple of cams in the narrow-to-rattly-finger range. A #2.5 Friend is handy at the start.
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is a very photogenic route. I used up an entire roll of film on it in 1987, shortly after the route was put up. Mar 1, 2004
indeed, one of my favorite single pitches anywhere.

does anyone else think it is sporty between bolts at the bottom?

b armstrong Mar 8, 2004
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
I could see it from the road and I had to go do it. One of the best! Jan 26, 2006
Agreed! Apr 20, 2006
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
I watched Peter Croft solo this climb a few years back. I'm not big into soloing, but amazing to watch nonetheless. Feb 20, 2008
Fort Collins, CO
Bingman   Fort Collins, CO
Really one of the best pitches around. Worth all the hype. The bolts are placed well for the majority of this climb, with one run-out on relatively easy terrain (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt?). It would be easy to protect this section with a nut or TCU, but if you are attempting this grade it shouldn't be a problem. I remember bringing gear but not bothering to place it because the climbing in the run-out was easy.

However, Peter Croft thought a rope was unnecessary, so I guess it's all personal preference. :)

It can also be difficult to clip the first bolt if you are short. Jan 16, 2009
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
This climb is more like a 105ft tall. A 60 Will get you down with about nothing to spare if you swing a little right. KNOT YOUR ENDS!!! Feb 26, 2009
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
For those wondering about the new bolt that mitigates the run-out on this route, it was placed with the blessing of the FA and the local community.

Also, I didnt think this route was all that special- it was just un-ending, mediocre 5.10 climbing with a couple of interesting moves of 5.11. Feb 21, 2011
Onsighted this route in 1997 - IIRC the guide back then called it 11d. Definitely not that hard now (despite the fact that I can't do it these days). Maybe 11b/c.

Tricky start (especially if you are short - a #2 cam will protect you before bolt #1) with a long reach from good undercling flake to small crimps / horizontals, then a delicate and technical slab crux at bolt 2 -3. After that, it's a matter of climbing efficiently on the endless 5.10 moves to the top.

Possible heartbreaker move near the end if you don't manage your pump effectively. Lots of places to semi-rest, especially the locker hand/fist jam at 1/2 height. Look around for not-very-chalked holds off the center line of the seam (especially to the left), that make some of the sequences easier.

A 60 meter rope will NOT make it to the ground. You can lower into the corridor on the right and down climb if need be.

A classic. Tied with Mr Choad's Wild Ride for best 5.11 sport pitch in RR. Nov 19, 2013
Hyrum j. C
St george, ut
Hyrum j. C   St george, ut
Dont know why this is listed as trad. It is bolted all the way up and not even run out. One of the best lines anywhere. I loved every second on this climb! Jan 21, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
No need for supplemental gear on this one...I was told that the FA party (Paul) did this solely on gear, exciting! 11 bolts total from what I remember. This thing climbs super well, nice edges all the way with the the hardest moves in the first 20'. Do this route if your in the quarry! Feb 2, 2016
Jonathan Falcetti
Holyoke, MA
Jonathan Falcetti   Holyoke, MA
The most beautiful line I have ever had the privilege of leading. Dec 12, 2016
Sean Godwin
Vancouver, BC
Sean Godwin   Vancouver, BC  
This route felt perfectly bolted to me. The bolts are reasonably well spaced, but they’re consistent, well placed, and the falls are great.

This is an absurdly good route. Definitely hit it in the early morning because it bakes in the sun. Jan 13, 2018
Kevin Doiron
San Francisco, CA
Kevin Doiron   San Francisco, CA
Holy what a fantastic climb!! Bolts are spaced out but totally safe - feels like a climb at Smith Rocks! There are 2 bolts midway up that are a little more spaced than others - you can place a .4 X4 nicely in one and a red Camalot in the other - these aren't necessary but can make it less stressful. Bottom crux is not a big deal if you are 5'10 and up - likely the crux for shorter climbers. Dec 18, 2018