Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Sal Mamusia, Mike Ward 1987
Page Views: 18,217 total · 82/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 31, 2002 with improvements by Austin Donisan
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

One of my favorite single-pitch climbs in the country, it is of a piece with other masculine enduro-classics such as Quarter of a Man and Mister Clean. Features slightly overhanging Red Rocks crimping. Starts with a cruxy move by the first bolt (harder if short), followed by a long stretch of 5.10 climbing with no real rests and ends with a semi-cruxy move just below the anchors.

The start of the climb is easy to find with the Swain guide. This climb is in the sun almost the entire day.

Protection

This pitch has about 10 bolts, which some of us consider insufficient for a climb of this length, difficulty and continuousness. The bolts can be easily supplemented with a few nuts in the #1-4 Rock range and a couple of cams in the narrow-to-rattly-finger range. A #2.5 Friend is handy at the start.

Photos