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Black Velvet - November, and sun?
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 27, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Might have reason to be in Vegas for a few days in November and would like to get a climb or two in. I'd love to do L29, but I don't think we'll have the time for such a long day.

I know the main Black Velvet wall will be quite shady in November, but what about the stuff further left like Wholesome Fullback, Triassic Sands, etc. Any sun this time of year?

My wife perfers climbing in the sun in November, and I don't blame her :)

Thanks


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By Paul Davidson
Oct 27, 2008

Just spent a week in RR.
When sun was out and wind was gone, we were seeking to climb in the shade.

I'll leave it to a local to comment on how long early morning sun will last on those routes in Nov.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 27, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Alternately, if Whiskey Peak will be too cold... I'll take recommendations for 1/2 to 2/3 day 5.10 trad routes that'll be appropriate for November.

Thanks
Andy


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By JP.8d
From Menlo Park, CA
Oct 27, 2008
JP doing battle with his first 5.11 onsight.

Back in 05, we spent a few weeks climbing around Thanksgiving in Black Velvet Canyon. On the nicest days, it is pretty chilly in the shade of the canyon, but almost perfect? climbing weather. I would recommend the same person leading all pitches, for I recall being really cold by the time the follower followed, swapped leads, and got to the top of the next pitch. How much do you love your wife??? and how much do you want her to love you? If you are there, you really should do Triassic Sands. It is one of the finest short routes I have ever done. Mega Classic IMHO.


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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008
Hip trouble ...

My first trip to Red Rocks was in March, I nearly froze climbing the Dream of the Wild Turkeys. I'd recommend staying in the sun, unless it is unusually warm.

Black Orpheus is a sunny route, though easy for 5.10 and long for 1/2 day. Anything near Solar Slab is sunny, but easier than 5.10.

The Brass Wall has lots of nice, sunny climbs 5.5-5.11.


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 27, 2008
South of Windy Peak

Some short, sunny 5.10 trad routes that come to mind:

East face of Mescalito gets morning sun.
Walker Spur 5.10 b/c
Y2K 5.10a sun might be hard to get on this one. Upper pitches definately shady.
Pauline's Pentacle 5.10a and Pine Nuts 5.10b which I haven't climbed but have wanted too...

Brass Wall has several routes, plus
Straight Shooter 5.9+

Chocolate Rocks - very sunny
Spinach 5.10 b/c
Peanut Butter and Jam 5.9+ **** shades after noon

Illusion Crags
Arm Forces - burly 5.9
Slight of Hand 5.9 and False Perception next to it (5.11a)

Andy, thought about a beer night while you're in town? Wednesday nights are good for Gigi and I...


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By MJW
From Boise, ID
Oct 28, 2008

The upper part of L29 should have afternoon sun...but it's been awhile. We did it 2nd week of November. Cold in the am!

Try Ginger Buttress. Several very good routes and it is still getting sun much of the day.


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By Mike Howard
Administrator
Oct 28, 2008
RGG silhouette

Unimpeachable Groping might be nice.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 29, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Good stuff, thanks all.

Just found this... good for a 1/2 day outting in the sun on a weekend?

www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/pine_creek_canyon/>>>


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By Royola
Oct 29, 2008

Epinephrine, early start, classic, bring a layer, 1/2 day, perfect!


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 29, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Royola wrote:
Epinephrine, early start, classic, bring a layer, 1/2 day, perfect!


Yeah, those chimney's get lots of sun! Actually, I have done Epi in 1/2 a day! Left the car at 6am, back at 2:30pm.....


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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 29, 2008
On Everleigh Club Crack.  Photo by Burt Lindquist.

If your partner climbs as quickly as you do, you could do Levitation or Eagle Dance - it's the hiking that will get you, not the climbing!

Unimpeachable Groping goes into the shade by 2pm? So get an earlyish start.

Try stuff on the right hand end of Brownstone.

Windy Peak would have a couple of routes for you.


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Oct 29, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

John Hegyes wrote:
.... Andy, thought about a beer night while you're in town? Wednesday nights are good for Gigi and I...


I wish we had time, but we probably won't. We arrive on Saturday morning, and are leaving on Monday morning. Barely enough time to climb and see the, um, Madonna concert (my wife is making me go, I swear!!).

We'll be back again I'm sure, and then most definitely a beer night!


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By Thomas Beck
From Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 29, 2008
beck on limestone

Andy, I well remember freezing my ass on Rock Warrior in November.

If you are up for L29, then you might look at Diet Delight on the Jackass Buttress of Windy Peak. Three pitches at 5.8+ and 40 minute approach. There is a very clean (not in the guidebook) line starting just 20 or 30 ft to the right of Diet Delight. Climbs the face flakes on gear and a couple bolts. It's probably 10b or 10c. Decent bolted belay anchors (gear from RP's to 3.5") and rap the route.

Problem with that area is the access...You would need a 4x4 maybe or high clearance vehicle - same access as Black Velvet. Protected from the NW winds and in the sun till 1:30 or 2:00 this time of year.


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By Josh Audrey
From LAS VEGAS
Oct 30, 2008
maneater

Andy,
Orange Clonus is a badass route and would be perfect for November.
My buddy Aaron S. posted some good beta for it. It's definitely one of the sweetest .10 cracks in Red Rocks and rarely done.
Josh


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Bend, OR
Nov 5, 2008
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Low 70s forecast for Saturday. Nice! Sounds like shade climbing to me.....

Maybe Black Velvet/Whiskey Peak is back on the table :)


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