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Picture Peak
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NE Buttress T 

NE Buttress 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 984
Submitted By: Dustysdawg on Sep 7, 2011

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Picture Peak from Hungry Packer Lake

Description 

This route is a great adventure in the Sierra. Based on the very limited information available on the web, it does not get climbed very often. The fact that this limited info has it rated Grade III or IV and 5.9 is a complete sandbag. Regardless of ratings, I can give a couple of comparisons to help estimate difficulty. It felt harder than NB of Merriam. Expect to expend the same amount of calories as you would/did on Western Front. I would say that this climb is more like Higher Cathedral with a bunch of 5.10 thrown in.
Pitch 1 - Start in the right facing corner with a hand crack that is just left of a large chimney. The chimney is an alternate start, but why? Belay under a roof. 5.9 200 feet
Pitch 2 - Go right and up over a bulge. Start aiming for the giant hanging flakes about that are about 800 feet off the ground. Follow the gully for most of this pitch. 5.8 - 200 feet
Pitch 3 - Scramble and simul-climb for about 250 more feet, still aiming for the hanging flakes. Belay on a ledge. 5.7 250 feet
Pitch 4 - Follow a thin crack to a ledge. It looks improbable, but it goes. It protects pretty well. 10a 190 feet
Pitch 5 - Climb up into the giant roof chimney. Looks intimidating, but it is really fun. 5.9 150 feet
Pitch 6 - Directly above the chimney is a single crack system that angles slightly right. It starts with a difficult thin crack and ends on a small stance. 10b 200 feet
Pitch 7 - Continue up the crack system, which widens to some great off width climbing. Finish on the ledge above the OW. 5.9+ 150 feet
Pitch 8 - From the top of the OW go up a jam/layback crack to a ledge. Then head left up another big crack to some more broken up terrain. 5.9+ 150 feet
Pitch 9 - Now you are close to the summit, but there is only really one way to go. Continue up through another OW and scramble around to ridge line.
From here you can decide if you want to keep going up he ridge line to the summit.


Location 

Once you get to Hungry Packer, scramble around the left side of the lake to the snowfield below the NE face. Look for the giant hanging flakes. The route starts directly below them. There is a giant chimney here, but the right facing corner is a fantastic way to start the route.

Protection 

This route protects pretty well. We brought a full set of offset nuts, including micros. Grey and purple tcu, double green, yellow and red aliens. Double Camalots from .75 to #3, plus one #4. There are no anchors, no fixed gear, and no signs of anyone climbing it.


Photos of NE Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at pitch 5, the chimney pitch.  This is the flakes feature that you are looking for from the ground.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 5, the chimney pitch. This is...
Looking up at pitch 6.  Sitting on top of the flakes on a huge, comfy belay ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 6. Sitting on top of the flak...
Looking up at pitch 4.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at pitch 4.
Entering the flakes chimney.
Entering the flakes chimney.

Comments on NE Buttress Add Comment
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By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 7, 2011

This just got bumped up on my list. Thanks for posting, straightforward descent??
By Murf
Sep 7, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I would agree that PP is longer and more committing than most Russell routes.

Looking over my notes from 10+ years ago, I see very little that matches to your description, but perhaps different eyes see different things.

To respond to Adam's question, I wonder if you topped out. When you say: From here you can decide if you want to keep going up he ridge line to the summit. I recall that much of the truly technical climbing ended at what we called the "first tower". However, a substantial amount of 4th/5th climbing remained.

My notes say (leaving off Pitches 1-8 ):

Pitch 9: Class4/easy 5 climbing across buttress until saddle. 300-400' easy 5th.

Short Rap off chockstone or downclimb 5.? shitty rock.

Pitch 10: Class 4/Easy 5th out of saddle until rope drag kill you. 80'

Pitch 11: Class 4/Easy 5th climb buttress high until final "step across" saddle. Stay high on buttress, down and left looks awful.

Pitch 12: Class4/easy 5 step across saddle, continue up through some 5th class flakes. Move left at the final short head wall and below just below summit. 200+'

Descent: Class 3 shitty. First Chute off of summit. Continue down 3/4 down chute, move descent left over slope to another chute. Shitty rock at bottom increases excitement factor. Continue down to small alpine lake.


By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Sep 7, 2011

Thank you Murf, good to know..
By x15x15
Sep 7, 2011

I will say if Dustysdawg said it is harder than western front, I would tend to believe him. DD has climbed everything on Russell, and a ton of other stuff too. just sayin...

and, if I climbed venturi effect without summitting the hulk, did i in fact climb venturi...
By DANC
Sep 7, 2011

Murf suks.
By Dustysdawg
Sep 8, 2011

Murf,
I agree that "different eyes see different things". Check out the pics of the three main pitches that I submitted. Do they match what you remember from the climb? Maybe I was off route. I will post more pics soon.
I have not climbed everything on Russell. and I still have to do Fishook. But, I already did all the ones you mentioned, plus Southwest Buttress (TM Herber 5.8). That TM route is really fun.
My comparisons to other climbs are merely to give people a sense of how difficult the route will feel compared to other routes. To show something other than ratings, like "5.9", which can mean different things to different people.
Let me rephrase....Expect to expend more calories on NE Buttress of Picture Peak than you did on Western Front.

Adam,
The descent is kind of a pain, but not as bad as getting off Twilight Pillar.
By Dustysdawg
Sep 8, 2011

After all that, I edited my description.
By amselby
Jul 8, 2013

Awesome route!!! Solid and fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Route info listed above worked great for us. Don't descend first chute! (cliffs out), we dropped the second chute (from top of technical climbing, not after summit proper) to the south which wasn't bad. Mostly 3rd class with 1 or 2 raps. Full day of fun, enjoy!