This route ascends the right side of the prominent buttress in the center of the north face. It is about halfway between the Cables Route and the Keyhole Ridge. This route is nice alternative to the Cables Route if you want some variety. The technical difficultes are about four pitches long, so it is much longer than the one-pitch Cables route. Since it is on a buttress it is free of snow much earlier than the Cables Route and can be climbed in rock shoes (temperatures permitting) in winter.
Ascend the lower rock buttress from the left or right side. The left side is shorter if coming up from the Boulder Field and looks easier and more rock intensive. At the top of the lower buttress things look pretty intimidating - much steeper than you expect. Head up and slightly right to get into a left angling dihedral/gully system. The route is characterized by climbing up a number of left angling systems and then making tricky moves to get from one system up to the next system.
There are good, albeit small, belay ledges.
This route is a bit runout and seemed a little serious in plastic boots in winter, but probably isn't so bad in the summer. I rated it S to be on the safe side. There are a couple of fixed pins on this route that serve as nice indicators that you are on route.
Line marks the approximate location of the route
John "Homie" Prater at the crux of the route on th...
John "Homie" Prater at the top of the second pitch...
|Comments on Mary's Ledges
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 14, 2002
What's that diagonal feature to the left of Bill's topo line?
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2002
Re: Diagonal Chimney. Rossiter calls this "Zumie's Chimney (5.2)".