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North Face/Ridge
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Mary's Ledges 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Wickens and Gilman, 1930
Page Views: 1,226
Submitted By: Bill Wright on Mar 23, 2002

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John "Homie" Prater at the top of the fi...

Description 

This route ascends the right side of the prominent buttress in the center of the north face. It is about halfway between the Cables Route and the Keyhole Ridge. This route is nice alternative to the Cables Route if you want some variety. The technical difficultes are about four pitches long, so it is much longer than the one-pitch Cables route. Since it is on a buttress it is free of snow much earlier than the Cables Route and can be climbed in rock shoes (temperatures permitting) in winter.

Ascend the lower rock buttress from the left or right side. The left side is shorter if coming up from the Boulder Field and looks easier and more rock intensive. At the top of the lower buttress things look pretty intimidating - much steeper than you expect. Head up and slightly right to get into a left angling dihedral/gully system. The route is characterized by climbing up a number of left angling systems and then making tricky moves to get from one system up to the next system.

There are good, albeit small, belay ledges.

Protection 

This route is a bit runout and seemed a little serious in plastic boots in winter, but probably isn't so bad in the summer. I rated it S to be on the safe side. There are a couple of fixed pins on this route that serve as nice indicators that you are on route.


Photos of Mary's Ledges Slideshow Add Photo
Line marks the approximate location of the route
Line marks the approximate location of the route
John "Homie" Prater at the crux of the route on the first pitch.
John "Homie" Prater at the crux of the r...
John "Homie" Prater at the top of the second pitch.
John "Homie" Prater at the top of the se...

Comments on Mary's Ledges Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 14, 2002

What's that diagonal feature to the left of Bill's topo line?
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2002

Re: Diagonal Chimney. Rossiter calls this "Zumie's Chimney (5.2)".