Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Alexander and Smith, 1924
Page Views: 30,821 total · 131/month
Shared By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Not on the Diamond, but a great easy technical route to the summit of Longs Peak. Slightly committing with tricky route finding. We roped up for 5 or so pitches, but other parties may do less or more depending on experience.

Follow the trail through the Boulderfield to the Keyhole. The route follows the ridge from the Keyhole to the summit.

From the hut at the Keyhole, hike south up the ramp on the east face until below the False Keyhole, and then head straight up (possibly roping up), to the hiker warning sign. From here, the route finding is slightly tricky, and there are a couple different ways to go. We headed south across the east face of the obvious tower for a pitch, and from there headed straight up dirty rock (5.6) to the summit of the tower. From the top, we dropped down the backside about 10 feet to an obvious ledge, and followed it south. Be very careful as there is much loose rock and the hiking trail is below.

Follow the ledge to the obvious notch before the next large tower. Scramble south up the obvious ramp, and then break left and head south on narrow ledges across the east face of the tower. At a right facing corner (possible fixed pin), head straight up the face following the path of least resistance (5.6). This is another possibly tricky route finding section. Once you reach an obvious ledge system near the crest, continue working south on the east side. Cross to the west side at a notch, and work your way up onto the summit ridge, and follow it to the top.

Protection

SR - nuts and some cams.

Photos