|Dead Cholla Wall
Another quality face and arÍte route on great rock involving some arÍte slapping and crimpy edging. Start at the undercut rock with a bush in the crack on the left. Pull up over the undercut on positive flake edges and face climbing past a horizontal crack for your first piece. More face climbing with thin moves between nice horizontal cracks takes you past a couple of bolts before getting into the crux on the blunt arÍte.
Take time to ponder your route up higher and choose whether to stay just left of the arÍte, on the arÍte or just right of the arÍte or all three.
This route is closer to the left end of the wall. It's easily identified as the beautiful, dark rock arÍte.
See the route topo photo for Open Season for location.
A small cam (.4 or .5 BD camalot) in the nice horizontal crack at about 12 feet and then 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Like many of the anchors at Dead Cholla, there are no lowering chains on these anchors. We just left our draws on the anchors and grabbed them from the top on our way out.
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
This route was great but the ending left me confused. I wanted to stay left of the arete but the easier finish was to stay right. The line was probably better to the left but a letter grade or two harder.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Staying left moves this climb into 12 territory, I think, given the slopers and the overhang. It was a MUCH harder finish than the rest of the climb, for sure. But, because it's so ambiguous with that last bolt, and that you can go right without "straying", it's an 11 to 11+ climb (for the ones I've done at this crag).