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East Face/Chimney Rock 
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Chimney Rock

Submitted By: David Stephens on Feb 26, 2008
Elevation: 7,124 feet
Latitude: 48.6191  Longitude: -116.6967 
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"Chimney Rock"


Description 

Chimney Rock is a unique granite tower that sits atop of the Selkirk range in north Idaho's panhandle. It has been called the "lightning rod" of North Idaho.

The West Face was climb in 1934 by John Carey, Mart Chamberlain, Fred Theime, and Byron Ward. It was soloed in 1935 by John Boothe. At 5.3 this is with out a doubt the most repeated route on Chimney.

Ed Cooper and Don Bergman in 1959 did the Northeast Face (5.8, A2) It was freed in 1980 by D.Burns & M. Colby.(5.10d) The east face was then climbed in 1961 by Ed Cooper and Dave Hiser and freed by John Roskelley and Chris Kopczynski in 1967.(Cooper-Hiser 5.9) Fred Beckey and Jerry Fuller in 1968 found the summit by way of the South Nose route 5.7 A2/5.9. The list of strong climbers go's on and on.


Getting There 

"Climber's Guide to North Idaho & the Cabinet Wilderness" by Thaddeus Laird 2007. This is a the only todate guide and seems to be lacking the long and rich climbing history that North Idaho enjoys. The drive is 10 miles of dirt road and can take up to 50 mimutes. At Hunt Creek road turn right, at 4.0 mile mark take the left fork. The last 1/3 mile before the Horton Ridge trailhead can be very rough.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Chimney Rock:
Lord Greystroke   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   East Face/Chimney Rock
Tsumani   5.11+ PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III   East Face/Chimney Rock
UNI   5.12a PG13     Trad, TR, 80 feet   East Face/Chimney Rock
Browse More Classics in Chimney Rock

Featured Route For Chimney Rock
Mattern in the corner.

UNI 5.12a PG13  ID : Chimney Rock : East Face/Chimney Rock
This is a thin lay back crack/flake with a small dihedral above it. Easily top roped if you climb Magnum Force to hang a TR. Originally rated 5.11+ as a on sight trad lead in the late '80s. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Photos of Chimney Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Sticky Fingers 5.10d on the West Face of Chiney Rock. First ascent by Gwain Oka and Hilary Bates summer 1980.  Gwain leading in this pic.

Sticky Fingers 5.10d on the West Face of Chiney Ro...

Fun Roof, West Face.  Gwian Oka climbing.  1st ascent done in 1980 by G. Oka, H. Bates and D. Burns

Fun Roof, West Face. Gwian Oka climbing. 1st asc...

Graymatter, 5.11c, the first 5.11 done at Chimney Rock, NE Face. F/A by D. Burns and Chuck Hartshorn  June 1980

Graymatter, 5.11c, the first 5.11 done at Chimney ...

The roof pitch of Illusions/Free Friends, 5.11a, East Face of Chimney rock.  FA Mark Colby and D. Burns 1981

The roof pitch of Illusions/Free Friends, 5.11a, E...

Jill Mattern following UNI, 5.12a.  The first 5.12 on Chimney rock.  F/A D. Burns and Jill Mattern summer '88

Jill Mattern following UNI, 5.12a. The first 5.12...

Jay Koopsen and Dane Burns on the 2nd pitch of Tsumani during the 1st ascent, 5.11+ R on the East Face of Chimney rock.  F/A 1986.

Jay Koopsen and Dane Burns on the 2nd pitch of Tsu...

The thin crack of ILLUSIONS, East Face of Chiney Rock.  FA Dane Burns and Mark Colby 1981.

The thin crack of ILLUSIONS, East Face of Chiney R...

Max Dufford on ther crux pitch of Yahoody, 5.11b.  F/A Dane and Darcy Burns, 1980.

Max Dufford on ther crux pitch of Yahoody, 5.11b. ...

Max Dufford on YAHOODY, East Face.

Max Dufford on YAHOODY, East Face.

How do we get off this thing?

How do we get off this thing?

Chimney Rock shadow

Chimney Rock shadow

Rainbow, clearing storm

Rainbow, clearing storm