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Routes in West Face/Chimney Rock

Fun Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Ain't Hay T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rappel Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sancho's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scuffin Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
West Face Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,887 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Engle

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

This great route provides the second easiest line to Chimney Rock's summit. You only briefly climb the actual "rappel chimney".

p1) easy 4th/5th climbing turns into awkward climbing as you near the belay ledge above a large right facing corner (2 wide cracks up the left side of the corner help identify the target ledge). Belay at the large ledge just right of a rappel station.

p2-3) the routes crux, is a nice short crack leaving the belay ledge leading to a bulge. Pull through the bulge or step right at the bulge for an easy exit. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor just 30' above or continue by stepping right into a great open book feature. Follow the open book, with great pro opportunities to its end. Move left into the belay/rappel notch. Belay here, then a short pitch leads to the summit.

Location [Suggest Change]

lookers left of the standard route, the general line climbs just left of the large right facing corner system which dominates the west faces left side

Protection [Suggest Change]

small rack to 2 inches, several slings


Zach Holt  
The first pitch of Sanchos has an excellent corner for 15 feet or so, just after the tree on the route. I think this offers a slightly better alternative than the first pitch of the rappel route. It happens to link really easy as well. Feb 12, 2018

More About Rappel Chimney