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Routes in West Face/Chimney Rock

Fun Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Ain't Hay T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rappel Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sancho's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scuffin Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
West Face Sandard T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,744 total · 29/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

This great route provides the second easiest line to Chimney Rock's summit. You only briefly climb the actual "rappel chimney".

p1) easy 4th/5th climbing turns into awkward climbing as you near the belay ledge above a large right facing corner (2 wide cracks up the left side of the corner help identify the target ledge). Belay at the large ledge just right of a rappel station.

p2-3) the routes crux, is a nice short crack leaving the belay ledge leading to a bulge. Pull through the bulge or step right at the bulge for an easy exit. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor just 30' above or continue by stepping right into a great open book feature. Follow the open book, with great pro opportunities to its end. Move left into the belay/rappel notch. Belay here, then a short pitch leads to the summit.

Location

lookers left of the standard route, the general line climbs just left of the large right facing corner system which dominates the west faces left side

Protection

small rack to 2 inches, several slings

Photos

Zach Holt  
 
The first pitch of Sanchos has an excellent corner for 15 feet or so, just after the tree on the route. I think this offers a slightly better alternative than the first pitch of the rappel route. It happens to link really easy as well. Feb 12, 2018

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