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Routes in West Face/Chimney Rock

Fun Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It Ain't Hay T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rappel Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sancho's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scuffin Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
West Face Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 239 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kevin Driscoll on Jul 10, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

Pitch 1 climb the flakes to the ledge below the off-width chimney pitch. This ledge has a dead tree on it and makes an excellent belay for the crux pitch 2. The chimney is excellent with mostly stemming but some jamming the off-width. Just warning that this is old school 5.9 and very strenuous for the grade. However pro is good with large pieces low and options on the left side for smaller gear middle and up. Exit the chimney and move left on excellent ledge for belay. Pitch 3 is a fun crack, flake, block climb 5.8 with good pro. Move into the crack off the belay ledge was the hard part, after which it eases. Move up and left before a committing move out from under a small roof and your done.

Location

The route is the obvious vertical corner/chimney located in the middle of the West Face. Start is just right of the Standard Route on Cl 3 ledges.
Descend via bolted anchors on the rappel chimney route.

Protection

Standard rack of cams and nuts up to #5. Had doubles in the mid-range cams. Used all the large gear on pitch 2. No cracks for top anchor on pitch 3, just large blocks, so bring long cordelette/slings.

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