Approach: Hobbit Roof is on the west face (backside) of the aptly-named Blob formation. Look for the obvious roof 20' off the deck.
This is a short route, but really fun! I'd give it 3 stars if it were longer. Thin and crimpy face climbing past one bolt (10d crux) lead up to the intimidating roof. The 10b roof protects very nicely with a #.75 Camalot. Get a good jam, take a deep breath, and fire it! Smooth sailing from here up the beautiful hand crack (#2 Camalot). Belay in crack.
Descent: scramble off climber's left.
1 bolt (3/8"), #.75,1,2 Camalots (1 ea.) Extra #1-#3 for anchor.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 14, 2003 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
At the crux face moves you can go left or right (my partner and I did it opposite ways) to make the moves. Both seem like 5.10d and are a matter of using tiny holds. The roof is 5.10a, and you can place gear at the lip while standing below, then run to the top safely without much ado. Fun end-of-the day climb, but not as cool as the pictures look. It is just too short to be classic.
My hands sweat just thinking about it'! :) NOT RECOMMENDED (from a beginners standpoint) after climbing ALL day!!! Set up a 'Top Rope', do your best to stay toward the right (beneath the roof), don't extend your leg too far from the crack, JAM, LOCK, and PULL!!! Hats off to anyone that has bouldered this 'problem'
Found the initial jams above the roof to be slightly too small for my hand. Figured out a way to do a big knee-bar and reach much higher for a more secure jam.
By Shipp From: laguna beach, ca Mar 4, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
The crack above the roof is easier for those w/ just the right hand size. If you've got meaty paws - it's harder - 10b. Always lots of fun.
By C Miller Administrator Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Hobbit Roof on Youtube -
By Rafe Jun 17, 2009 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Roof would protect better with .5 c4, as .75 seemed to block my hand jam. Pulling a thin hands offset roof crack seems harder than .10b to me.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Crux is by the bolt and just really a boulder problem. The roof protects perfectly with a BD #.75 or Orange Alien right under the lip. Sink a knee bar, hit a jam, kick a foot up and stand- just don't place a cam in your next hand jam
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Dec 1, 2009 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
Crux is definitely the face at the bottom of the route. Very thin with an awkward "top out". I pulled through the roof with ease, as soon as I hit the perfect hand jam just above the lip.
The rest of the route is easy.
By Ian G. From: PDX, OR Feb 27, 2010 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
There is no way this route is any harder than .10a. The slab crux seemed similar in difficulty to other .10- slabs in JTree. The handcrack/roof is really just one move. A very fun route though, I enjoyed it.
By Bob Gaines Feb 28, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b
FA:(with aid) Steve Godshall, June, 1971 FFA: John Long, 1975.
I agree with the down grading of this one. The face move at the bottom is really a one move wonder. I'm 5'7" and found it a semi-easy pull up on two crimps right of bolt, my friend that followed me is like 6' or better and thought it was even easier.
The roof was fun, I thought harder than the face but not bad. My hands take up a lot of volume in cracks and felt it wasn't actually hand jams until making the move to stand on the lip of the roof. Really could only get my hands in to the knuckles.
It was really like two little boulder problems and I thought it was really fun. Regardless of how I felt it was easier than the rating, I will be sure to tell all the kids, "Yeah, I did J-Tree 10d." lol