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The Blob - West Face
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Hobbit Roof 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Godshall, June 1971, FFA: John Long, 1975
Page Views: 5,604
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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Mike Conley soloing Hobbit Roof

Description 

Approach: Hobbit Roof is on the west face (backside) of the aptly-named Blob formation. Look for the obvious roof 20' off the deck.

This is a short route, but really fun! I'd give it 3 stars if it were longer. Thin and crimpy face climbing past one bolt (10d crux) lead up to the intimidating roof. The 10b roof protects very nicely with a #.75 Camalot. Get a good jam, take a deep breath, and fire it! Smooth sailing from here up the beautiful hand crack (#2 Camalot). Belay in crack.

Descent: scramble off climber's left.

Protection 

1 bolt (3/8"), #.75,1,2 Camalots (1 ea.) Extra #1-#3 for anchor.


Photos of Hobbit Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Kayte Knower limbers up before Hobbit Roof.
Kayte Knower limbers up before Hobbit Roof.
HR
BETA PHOTO: HR
Art Morimitsu on Hobbit Roof
Art Morimitsu on Hobbit Roof
Setting up 'Pro' above Hobbit Roof
Setting up 'Pro' above Hobbit Roof
Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's...
Me seconding the Hobbit Roof after Jarod Sickler's...
Hobbit Roof. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Hobbit Roof. Photo by Blitzo.
The namesake roof (5.10a) on Hobbit Roof.  Photos ...
The namesake roof (5.10a) on Hobbit Roof. Photos ...
Hobbit Roof, J-tree
Hobbit Roof, J-tree
Hobbit Roof formation
Hobbit Roof formation
John Dubrawski sizes up 'Hobbit Roof' (5.10) at Jt...
John Dubrawski sizes up 'Hobbit Roof' (5.10) at Jt...
hobbit roof
hobbit roof

Comments on Hobbit Roof Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2012
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 14, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

At the crux face moves you can go left or right (my partner and I did it opposite ways) to make the moves. Both seem like 5.10d and are a matter of using tiny holds. The roof is 5.10a, and you can place gear at the lip while standing below, then run to the top safely without much ado. Fun end-of-the day climb, but not as cool as the pictures look. It is just too short to be classic.
By E. Ramos
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 28, 2004

My hands sweat just thinking about it'! :) NOT RECOMMENDED (from a beginners standpoint) after climbing ALL day!!! Set up a 'Top Rope', do your best to stay toward the right (beneath the roof), don't extend your leg too far from the crack, JAM, LOCK, and PULL!!! Hats off to anyone that has bouldered this 'problem'
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2004

I love pulling the roof. The rest is no big deal. Fun boulder problem.
By tony grice
Feb 13, 2006

face move crux down low. 10a crack. cool short route for the 10 10s in a day quest
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the most obvious way to pull the crux was just to the right of the bolt. The roof was less impressive than I had thought it would be BUT the jams were killer!
By Rob A
Dec 8, 2006

Found the initial jams above the roof to be slightly too small for my hand. Figured out a way to do a big knee-bar and reach much higher for a more secure jam.
By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The crack above the roof is easier for those w/ just the right hand size. If you've got meaty paws - it's harder - 10b. Always lots of fun.
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Hobbit Roof on Youtube -
By Rafe
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Roof would protect better with .5 c4, as .75 seemed to block my hand jam. Pulling a thin hands offset roof crack seems harder than .10b to me.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Crux is by the bolt and just really a boulder problem. The roof protects perfectly with a BD #.75 or Orange Alien right under the lip. Sink a knee bar, hit a jam, kick a foot up and stand- just don't place a cam in your next hand jam
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Crux is definitely the face at the bottom of the route. Very thin with an awkward "top out". I pulled through the roof with ease, as soon as I hit the perfect hand jam just above the lip.

The rest of the route is easy.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Feb 27, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

There is no way this route is any harder than .10a. The slab crux seemed similar in difficulty to other .10- slabs in JTree. The handcrack/roof is really just one move. A very fun route though, I enjoyed it.
By Bob Gaines
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

FA:(with aid) Steve Godshall, June, 1971
FFA: John Long, 1975.
By J.J
Jun 8, 2011

I've failed to find this climb walking around the Blob 2 times now!
By Brian Chastain
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree with the down grading of this one. The face move at the bottom is really a one move wonder. I'm 5'7" and found it a semi-easy pull up on two crimps right of bolt, my friend that followed me is like 6' or better and thought it was even easier.

The roof was fun, I thought harder than the face but not bad. My hands take up a lot of volume in cracks and felt it wasn't actually hand jams until making the move to stand on the lip of the roof. Really could only get my hands in to the knuckles.

It was really like two little boulder problems and I thought it was really fun. Regardless of how I felt it was easier than the rating, I will be sure to tell all the kids, "Yeah, I did J-Tree 10d." lol
By John Long
Feb 25, 2012

This was first climbed free before 1975. Maybe as early as 1972 because I remember still being in High School. Did it on-sight free solo and never thought anyone would ever bother repeating it.

Go figure.

JL